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  #22  
Old 26-11-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee View Post
I'm guessing that the front end is basically the same between all the live axle Jeeps, so this thread should help you learn what you need to look at.
Similar but small differences across the models from my experience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee View Post
It's the best post about diagnosing & fixing DW that I have seen:

Diagnosing Death Wobble and Fixing Non-DW Shimmies and Wobbles

Good reading & explanation and a great pic that is labelled so you are sure about what things are being referred to.
Not sure it is a great explanation, I tend to disagree with a couple of points made. Essentially the poster says worn rod ends would create a shimmy, in my experience they can also create a full on death wobble, make sure all of the rod ends are in good condition before you get carried away with other components.

The track bar bushes usually contribute but when I had my death wobble issues, new track bar bushes didn't cure the problem, I believe they helped a little. My point is many people put too much faith in the track bar buses solving their problems when it won't always do it.

Make sure your rod ends and balljoints are good, they can all contribute. Also I reckon the lower control arm bushes can also create problems.
  #23  
Old 26-11-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee View Post
I'm guessing that the front end is basically the same between all the live axle Jeeps, so this thread should help you learn what you need to look at. It's the best post about diagnosing & fixing DW that I have seen:

Diagnosing Death Wobble and Fixing Non-DW Shimmies and Wobbles

Good reading & explanation and a great pic that is labelled so you are sure about what things are being referred to.
This is the exact link i was going to post

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  #24  
Old 27-11-2016
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I think it is fairly accurate as far as the definition of DW that he is using. That is, DW is a lateral oscillation of the axle relative to the frame. Rod ends will let the wheels rotate left/right rapidly but won't let the axle move sideways.

2 things, however. Very bad shimmies feel much the same as DW, (been there, felt that!), and the shimmy can lead to wear & damage that then introduces true DW as well & can act as a trigger for it to start.
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  #25  
Old 28-11-2016
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Thanks so much for all the input guys, as I have just had the tie Rod ends replaced so I am looking at Bushings and ball joints next.. the DW only started since the lift went on and has calmed down (been masked) since the 265/70 17's went on.

Again, thanks for the info it's been invaluable.

Great community.

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  #26  
Old 28-11-2016
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Was caster correction included in the lift?

My JK was subject to some pretty bad shimmies before I added the correction. Thought it was DW at first, but it was stopping without me having to slow to almost stationary & all reports of DW say you just about need to stop before it settles. Any angled or offset bump in the road would trigger it.

The first thing to check though is ARE ALL THE BOLTS PROPERLY TORQUED? If they weren't tightened properly, or have loosened as the lift has settled in, that definitely COULD cause shimmies or DW.
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Last edited by Banshee; 28-11-2016 at 07:43 PM.
  #27  
Old 02-12-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee View Post
Was caster correction included in the lift?

My JK was subject to some pretty bad shimmies before I added the correction. Thought it was DW at first, but it was stopping without me having to slow to almost stationary & all reports of DW say you just about need to stop before it settles. Any angled or offset bump in the road would trigger it.

The first thing to check though is ARE ALL THE BOLTS PROPERLY TORQUED? If they weren't tightened properly, or have loosened as the lift has settled in, that definitely COULD cause shimmies or DW.
No caster correction was fitted, but it's getting looked at next week.. I am going to hold off on actually doing it though as I flex tested it today and the 2.5" lift isn't going to cut it.. f@ck all flex (I am comparing to my last vehicle mind you, jku with 4" lift), but still no where near enough travel out of this set up. I'm going to have to fork out on the Rusty's 4" long arm kit sooner than I hoped, I may need to cut some plastics too, the rear tyres rub in the wheel well. Probably need spacers (or new rims) on as the tyres are rubbing On the shocks as well.

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  #28  
Old 02-12-2016
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As you can see, f$ck all travel.

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