Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonygubbin
Yerr I heard say that a few times JJ,  . I have little idea about cable sizing other than what I get told I should use by the auto electrician. The thickness of the copper is pretty much a tight fit in the yellow crimp terminals. You would have a better idea than me what it is in mm2. It seems a decent thickness as it is heavier than what I was using and I had no troubles before runnning the Waeco on the thinner cable. But as a precaution increased the size as per an AJOR members advice. Out of couriosity what would be the thickenss of the copper?
BTW did you get a chance to read my last post re the amp & head unit and the ground loop issue. I was hoping you might be able to point me in some direction on how I can work out what is causing the ground loop.
Regards A |
Ground loops can be caused by different things, you can have a perfectly quiet single amped system and then add a second amp with the supply and grounds coming from the same points and you can get noise, it can be especially noticable with lower grade components.
From here there is no real way I can pin point what the cause is but there are a few things that you can do the first thing that I would do is to make sure that the ground is nice and solid for the head unit, this is very important, then look at the connections for the power, are they the factory wiring? This can be fine if the head unit is not super hungry for power or if you are running the speakers off the amp.
Then I would check the main ground from the battery to the body, remove it, clean it and the body add some vaso or silicon grease and then refit, if you have a lot of accessories fitted then upgrade this ground, it is important.
Then check the ground from the engine to the body, same as above, clean and or upgrade it.
Next thing to look at would be how clean and solid is the ground for the aerial?
Then you can start to work through the system so what you can try is to half unplug the rca leads at the amp so that the sheild is disconnected but the centre pin is still connected, if this eliminates the noise then it is easy, use a ground loop isolator.
I have made rca leads in the past using cat5 network cable, they are what is referred to as UTP which means unshielded twisted pairs, it is ugly but I found that they worked very well for that install that was previously noisy so there is no hard and fast rule, it used to be said that you had to run the signal cables down one side of the car and the power down the other otherwise you will get noise, this is rubbish, I have had the whole lot bundled together for a perfectly quiet system and then in other ones I have had them seperated and was getting noise.
So whatever fixes it is what you will need to run with....
As for the 6mm cable, you may very well have bought real 6mm2 cable which is why I asked if it was automotive 6mm or not....
HTH, JJ
