CRD turbo actuator failure?

[Turismo07]

Originally Posted by Mudgee hunter

Make sure the linkage is fine firstly. Then check for a vacuum leak in the hose leading to it.
And the linkage pin are known for getting sticky and stuck.
A simple vacuum leak can stop the actuator from working.

There's no vacuum hose, only elec harness/plug connected to it.

But def check the arm that it moves freely and the turbo vanes move freely.

[Mudgee hunter]

I could very well be wrong in this model. Could well be electronic.
But any internal sticky build up will make any actuator work harder, leading to premature wear etc.

[Brit30-06]

Hi.
I think you can check the actuator is moving by looking at it when someone cycles the ignition for you.

[arkaba_b]

Hi
Here is a great site by the Canadian chap mentioned earlier who only fixes Turbo Actuators on the OM642 engine in Jeep WH/WK's.

http://turboactuatorrepair.com

He has a helpful Troubleshooting section on his site which takes you thru Symptoms & Diagnosis of suspect Turbo Actuators - he also give a Lifetime Guarantee on repairs. (Im not connected but he does seem to know what he is talking about & has good reviews).

Experience on my 2007 WH & also research on numerous MB & Jeep forums indicate that the 4 main OM642 Actuators (Swirl Motor/Turbo Actuator/EGR Valve/EGR Throttle Valve) all have plastic gearboxes/wheels & electronic components which are prone to failure in our high heat environment in OZ.

IMHO the actuators are a weak point in the overall engine design.

Perhaps OK in cool Europe but problematic in OZ.

Many of the DTC's thrown up by these actuators are intermittent making component diagnosis quite difficult.

Hang in there & stay safe. Cheers

[alexbrown64]

The actuator is a common problem around the world. Bit like the OM642 glow plug module. You can fix it yourself a lot of the time.

Here is the link to show you how. Just like the glow plug module, there are a few wires that fail. Costs about 10c in solder to fix most of the time.

https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...tor-again.html

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Originally Posted by Turismo07

In my experience and what I have heard online mostly, they are fine.

People do say that the turbo is "programmed" for its original actuator and therefore its not a good idea to separate the turbo from its actuator and mix and match. But in my experience mine is fine.

I have tried x2 Chinese actuators now, not because they were no good but because I wanted to try different codes out. They are cheap enough to so and now I have a spare lol.

I ahve also tried a secondhand actuator from another Jeep OM642, it had a different code to mine but turned out to be faulty as well.

Another option is to have yourself refurbished. There was a old post from years ago about someone on this forum in Melb that offered that service, not sure if he still does. Also a few places online (aware of a Canadian company that does it). But you need to ship your actuator to them and wait for return etc so vehicle out of action while you wait. Also no doubt the rebuilders are using the Chinese parts anyway (once you start looking into you will see all the internals and replacements avail to rebuild are all from China anyway).

I have my old one now that I might send off to get refurbished one day just to see if its any better, but for now very happy with my fake Chinese actuator.

What you need to do is remove you actuator and see what code it is (ie G277, G219, G001 etc) and then find the same coded actuator online. Mine is G277 stock, but apparently G001 is a updated actuator designed by Hella (used on later model OM642 engines) that replaces both the G277 and G219. I have bought G277 and G001 copies from China, both work well but I prefer the G277 copy as it had slightly more reponse so running that currently.

I’m thinking of getting one of the cheap actuators G001 as a backup. They have have come down to $120 delivered and would be interesting to see how it performs. Not sure if mine is overboosting a bit.
Anyone else have feedback now on these?