Duel battery.

[Wiz.au]

Time for a progress update.... (Warning: Picture HEAVY)

Cleaned up nearly all the old wiring now, and well into installing the new wiring.

Front, now has a 6 way fuse box mounted on the battery, just because I couldn't find anywhere more convenient that would allow access to the fuses and the wiring.

I also ran a 6x core cable through to the cabin, and have terminated this with "rising block' screw terminal strip. This allows me to take 'High Beam' signal into the cabin, and come out from dash switches for the Light bar, and future Driving Lights, as individual circuits to separate fuses and relays. I also have 3 spare wires for other things as needed later (like a LED strip light under the bonnet ).


I have relocated the light bar from in front of the winch to the top of the 'hoop' and still allowing for two antennas, by installing 2x rivnuts and sanding a matching concave into the Lightbar brackets. Now I can install Driving Lights in front of the winch later, and the Lightbar will do a better job of illuminating tracks right in front of the car. You can also see the BLUE SB50 Anderson wired to the starting battery through 2x 25A fuses in the fuse box on the battery. This will allow me to charge (maintain/float) the starting battery with a Solar Panel and Regulator. (More about this later...)


Definitely doing some work... Crap EVERYWHERE!


And you can see from the previous picture, I have the rear Solar Input mounted that runs through 6mm cable to the IDC25 DC-DC charger with MPPT solar input. This has a RED (Keyed) SB50 Anderson inside it, so that only the Solar Panel without a Regulator can be plugged in.


And both the Solar Input 6mm Cable and the 12v Outlet standard Grey SB50 Anderson on the Towbar, run through this grommet under the jack and tools on the LHS of the cargo area. (In later photos you will also see a Green wire for the Aux Fuel Tank gauge, and a Red wire for the transfer fuel pump)
You can also see the PP75 connectors I had to use to wire up the IDC25 DC-DC charger, as the 8Ga cable wouldn't fit in the PP45 connectors.


I've installed a dual 6mm Binding Post that will connect the IDC25, the Aux battery, the feed to the relays, and the Towbar 12v Outlet SB50 (through a 50Amp Manual Reset Circuit Breaker). This binding post has been installed in a little box that has a cover so it's protected when it's all finished. You can also see on the left all the Earth cables going to the 6mm Earth that was already there from the factory.


And so far so good....


But.... I did forget to get a 50Amp fuse for the IDC25 Output to the Aux Battery. In my original Diagram (see previous post), I got it wrong. I put the 50A Manual Reset Circuit Breaker (RCB) at the battery, but that would mean both the IDC25 and the 12v Outlet on the towbar would BOTH be running through it. I sorta got confused because one is INPUT to the battery, and the other is OUTPUT to the SB50 on the towbar, so I thought it would be OK. But I have decided to go with a 50Amp Fuse on the IDC25 and a 50A RCB on the Anderson. Much more likely to overload the towbar connection than the IDC25 have an issue and short.

I have a 150Amp Waterproof/Marine Manual Reset Circuit Breaker on the way for the battery. The 240v Inverter takes 75Amps, and the Compressor takes 45Amps, plus all the other ancillary items (Fridge, Lights, chargers, etc...) I thought 150Amp battery protection was suitable.

I also need to get 10mm eye terminals, for the battery terminals.

I also forgot to get a fuse box for all the outputs as well. Like the Aux Fuel Tank transfer pump, the switched 12v Outlet in the cargo area, the IGN input wire for the IDC25, and the feed to the LED lights that are going on the Roof Rack. But I only need to run 1x wire up to those, as I'm being tricky and using a 4ch Wireless Remote Control System to switch those. It has inbuilt 5Amp relays which will be fine. 2x 6in Lightbars on the front, and 2x 18Watt 'worklights' on the rear, and a 18watt slimline light on either side. All controlled by the remote keyfob from INSIDE THE TENT! There are also switches inside the cab that use a wireless 'sender' to work the 'roof lights' as well, when Off-Roading in the dark to see all around in tight bush, etc.

Now.... Getting to the bit where I have to cut floor for the battery!

[Wiz.au]

Well, it's done.... the hole in the floor that is....

I was a bit cautious, and rightly so. In one spot I cut too deep and hit the metal ribbing underneath the rubber sheet. Don't think it's too bad. But for anyone else doing this, your cut depth is about 1/2in or 12-13mm. There is ribbing under the 'chequer plate' plastic floor, but you can snap it with a flat blade screwdriver in the slot you cut. You do not need to cut 'all the way' to the rubber sheeting. I learnt the hard way....

First Cut:


Whoops, TOO DEEP!



Battery Fitted:


Excellent, fits below floor height!


Tidied up some of the wiring and installed the 6-Way Fuse Box.
On the right are 3x relays for: Aux Fuel Tank Pump, IGN/Acc Switched Power Outlet, and a spare for later.
Jack will fit back in without any problems. and I'll tidy up the relay wiring a bit more too.


To Do:

• Install 50Amp fuse between IDC25 Output & M6 binding post to Aux Battery +ve
• Install 150Amp Manual Reset Circuit Breaker at Aux Battery +ve
• Think about a strap of some sort to bolt down the battery
• Make a Ply & Alloy Sheet replacement 'floor/cover', with Marine Carpet covering, screwed down to plastic floor with rivnuts and stainless Phillips head countersunk M6 screws.
• Install 50Amp Manual Reset Circuit Breaker on Anderson SB50 fitted to Towbar
• Install rubber edging along sharp plastic cut section of floor against battery
• Install 8AWG Earth strap (cable) from Towbar to Body
• Re-Wire Dash Switches - Lightbar, Aux Fuel Pump & Aux Fuel Tank Gauge
• Install another 6mm binding post and 4-way fuse box in passenger footwell, to provide 'Permanent' battery power to In-Cabin devices.
• Run 4mm2 cable up rear C pillar to power 4Ch wireless relay and Roof Mounted Lights
• Re-Wire 7Pin Trailer lights socket
• Install 240v Inverter, make up a remote On/Off switch & Status/Fault LED's to somewhere I can get to/see easily, and run a 3Flex cable to a Transco Weatherproof Dual Outlet mounted on top of wheel arch/side window plastic trim ledge, through a 5Amp RCD/RCBO (Safety Switch) breaker.
  
  

I don't think I'm gunna get all that done by tomorrow, as I have to take the car to my new job on Monday!
I'll concentrate on getting the car 'drivable', and getting all my tools out of it!

[CibbyDoc]

Looks good mate so far. Don't worry too much about cutting the rib section, it's only glue type stuff not metal or part of the vehicle. I actually removed all mine so I could get a better heatsink with the battery as I have more powerful charger. It's looking quite neat mate. You might consider some venting for the charger as they get quite hot and when installed under the bonnet have a lot more air movement. Just a thought.


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[Vards]

Nice work thanks for all the pics Wiz