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Old 03-12-2010
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Angry Over haeting AGAIN


Hi all.Once again i am having over heating problems.Towing a 1850kg van (which is still 950 kg under the max weight) with the AC on going up a slight hill,when the needle starts to climb up to the 3/4 mark.The outside temp was around 31 deg.
The thermo viscous fan was replaced 9 months ago and i am using the 4x4green radiator fluid (cannot remember the name) not plain water.I checked the electric fan and that was working too.What now !!!
Apart from two 100w Narva spotties,and they are not the big ones,there are no restrictions in front of the radiator and the fins are clear of bugs etc.
Has any one else had the same issues and if so,what did they do to rectify it ? Really appreciate any feed back on this one as i have spoken to other 4x4users towing in similar situations and they all say their needles remain around the half way mark.
Our vehicle is a 2005 TD KJ 2.8
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Old 03-12-2010
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Would strongly advise the use of HOAT genuine Mpar – it isn’t that exy. This is critical. Otherwise red coolant is the correcft one – must have HOAT and this absolutely cannot be mixed with green coolant. The system must be fully flushed with the heater open etc. If you have used green coolant I would suspect it is not of adequate duty cycle and you will have to use a neutralizer to ensure that the tiny bits you can’t flush from the galleries will not interact with the new coolant.

I have to stress it needs more than just ethylene glycol the HOATs play a very important role in preventing corrosion between galvanically different materials.
Despite common opinion, the cooling system is designed around the coolant now. Before it was the other way around.

From the FSM:
ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING: Antifreeze is an ethylene glycol base coolant and is harmful if swallowed or inhaled. If swallowed, drink two glasses of water and induce vomiting. If inhaled, move to fresh air area. Seek medical attention immediately. Do not store in open or unmarked containers. Wash skin and clothing thoroughly after coming in contact with ethylene glycol. Keep out of reach of children. Dispose of glycol base coolant properly, contact your dealer or government agency for location of collection center in your area. Do not open a cooling system when the engine is at operating temperature or hot under pressure, personal injury can result. Avoid radiator cooling fan when engine compartment related service is performed, personal injury can result.
CAUTION: Use of Propylene Glycol based coolants is not recommended, as they provide less freeze protection and less corrosion protection.
The cooling system is designed around the coolant. The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves and engine block. Then coolant carries the heat to the radiator where the tube/fin radiator can transfer the heat to the air.
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection.

MoparT Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equivalent ethylene glycol base coolant with organic corrosion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
CAUTION: MoparT Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection.
COOLANT PERFORMANCE
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water mixture depends upon climate and vehicle operating conditions.
The coolant performance of various mixtures follows:
Pure Water-Water can absorb more heat than a mixture of water and ethylene-glycol. This is for purpose of heat transfer only. Water also freezes at a higher temperature and allows corrosion.
100 percent Ethylene-Glycol-The corrosion inhibiting additives in ethylene-glycol need the presence of water to dissolve. Without water, additives form deposits in system. These act as insulation causing temperature to rise to as high as 149°C (300°F). This temperature is hot enough to melt plastic and soften solder. The increased temperature can result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent ethylene-glycol freezes at -22°C (-8°F).
50/50 Ethylene-Glycol and Water-Is the recommended mixture, it provides protection against freezing to -37°C (-34°F). The antifreeze concentration must always be a minimum of 44 percent, year-round in all climates. If percentage is lower, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation. Maximum protection against freezing is provided with a 68 percent antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing down to -67.7°C (-90°F). A higher percentage will freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher percentage of antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water.
CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be measured with normal field equipment and can cause problems associated with 100 percent ethylene-glycol.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling.
Unquote
And yes I run the 2.8 crd 2006 and maintain it myself.
All the best
Auberon
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Old 03-12-2010
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I don't have a problem like that (with the coolant temperature) but I did have a problem with transmission temperatures in similiar circumstances (fixed by installing an auxiliary tranny cooler).

There was a TSB (Tech Service Bulletin) related to the temperature gauge indicating high temperatures.

"The 2005 CRDs came from the factory with an incorrectly calibrated temperature guage, which meant that the temp needle would sit near the HOT mark on the guage, even though the actual engine temperature was OK."

Try reading back through Wilmo's Sticky at the front of the KJ CRD FAQs.

If the TSB is not an issue for you then suggest you try the following:

1. Turn the air conditioner off - the AC condensor sits at the very front of the cooling system stack and has the transmission cooler imbedded at the bottom of it. When your running the AC your pumping heat into the condensor and then it flows into the radiator behind it.
2. Get a scanner or gauge that will allow you to monitor temperatures (including tranny) separately to the dash temp gauge.
3. Turn the lights sideways to improve airflow into the grill area.
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Old 03-12-2010
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Just a quick note after last year's experience, get someone to check the radiator for blockages. This may require taking the radiator out but I found myself overheating after a poor servicing that was meant to be a cooling system flush and ended up in a clogged core and a damaged water pump seal. This left me stranded in Halls Creek for eight days, the total story is too long for here.
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Old 04-12-2010
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I had a similar prob a few years ago now, turned out to be a build up of bugs and grass seed between the A/C condenser and the radiator, pulled the grill out and swung the condenser out a bit without undoing the hoses and it was nearly totally blocked with crap although it looked fine from the outside.
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Old 04-12-2010
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Appreciate the feed back, 1st plan will be to get it to Jeep and they can do a flush plus the correct coolant,however i will also take a good look in the bug dept.Cheers
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Old 06-12-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy View Post
Appreciate the feed back, 1st plan will be to get it to Jeep and they can do a flush plus the correct coolant,however i will also take a good look in the bug dept.Cheers
No need to go to Jeep for the correct coolant.
This is the right stuff, green in colour. The OEM stuff is just this with a red dye.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/br.../antifreeze/42
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