Engine mounts

[EH]

Hey Aussie Yank,

should be the postest with the mostest..

truth be told, im just trying to give a lonely engine a home....

but the more i learn about these things, the more i like them!

what do u guys always say "its a jeep thing???'

Ed

[paz]

yep,,everything is weld in,,as you would already probably know,,but just in case,,dont weld across the chasis,,weld along it,,this way it will stop it from cracking,,and just for insurance,,i always do runs of weld about an 1" or 1 1/2" long (stitch),,this way if it does decide to crack then it will only go the length of the weld where it started...
paz :D

Originally posted by Ed:
Thanks Paz!

That was exactly the info I was after. By looking at your pics, it looks like a complete weld in job? ;)

[EH]

Hi Paz,

this is my first foray into chassis work, so the tech tips provided are very helpful.

Im guessing with your welding tips along the chassis rather than across the chassis is to compensate for any cracking resulting from the torsional twist of the chassis rails.

which would mean welding the top and bottom edges of the engine mounts only? (as per your picture)

Is this also why you have a cross member running behind the mounts as well, to both decrease chassis flex, and to provide a solid welding point to the rear face of the engine mount?

Do you see any benefit of full welding your mounts to a spreader plate and in turn bolting that plate to the chassis? or just an unecessary extra step?

I appreciate your time and patience, im just trying to understand the science and engineering behind the design, as i work to the rul, measure twice cut once.

Cheers

Ed
[img]smile.gif[/img]

[paz]

Im guessing with your welding tips along the chassis rather than across the chassis is to compensate for any cracking resulting from the torsional twist of the chassis rails.

it is more when you weld it changes the structure of the metal(due to heat),,and it may crack because of those stresses you were talking about or even vibrations etc...

which would mean welding the top and bottom edges of the engine mounts only?

also i forgot,,i put a small stitch about 1" long in the centre,,as in across the chasis(vertical),,but i do not go right across..

Is this also why you have a cross member?

i had to put in the xmember cause the front rails of my old girl were twisted due to the old xmember had been cracked out years ago and the old motor had twisted them in,,i used this to straighten them out,,and also like you said,,,gives it more strength,,oh,,and i left the old xmember out,,i plan to use this for serious 4wding,,and i want the suspension to flex,,not the chasis..

Do you see any benefit of full welding your mounts to a spreader plate and bolting?

it would add extra strength,,but instead of bolting i would just weld the spreader plate directly along the chasis,,otherwise you would have to stuff around with crush tubes and stuff,,pain in the butt i reckon..this would also give you a lot more weld area,,which in the long run would be a lot stronger,,is a good idea,,i probably should have done this to mine but did not think of it [img]graemlins/headspin.gif[/img] ..
if you want i can take some more pics since it is now fully welded and post them,,not a problem at all,,happy to help..
paz :D

[billsta]

hey Ed.

are you going to make sure the DJ will do 1/4 mile in 13 seconds? :D that would be sweet :D

[EH]

Hi Paz,

Thanks a heap for the advice, i feel confident to attack this job now. [img]smile.gif[/img]

Billsta!
the FE is for racing..
the DJ is for fun!

check this link for a tuff posty

http://www.postaljeep.com/cliffie.html

thanks again
Ed

[TW.]

ed, we sell a complete bolt in kit for a chev small block to any parrallel chassis rails utilizing a 4 bolt (2 top/2low) AM-8 (290/401) mechanical locking engine mount. we go thru the same orig holes in the chassis to use the orig crush tubes.
if you cant sort it e me direct for info & $$. tw