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  #15  
Old 15-04-2012
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Try this link to a page from a Sth African site, the author is very good and has many great tips and ideas.

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...t=38447&page=8

Some of the advice is as follows


The engine and the transmission should be lowered. This looked like a lot of risk to me so I did the following:

I made two holes with a chassis punch above each injector. The holes are slightly offset to accommodate the angle of the injector. The injector puller was then used through the hole. This will work fine if the injectors are not stuck because of a black carbon build up.

Here are some things to consider:

Remove and install only one injector at a time to ensure that no foreign objects falls into the head. I used a cloth wrapped around a 8mm plastic tube to remove any dirt that may be at the bottom of the injector sealing washer.

Always use new injector sealing washers and put a lot of Mercedes special white grease around the injector before inserting it into the head. The stretch bolts that clamps the injector down must also be replaced. Tighten the bolts to 7Nm + 90 degrees. Do not over tighten the bolts!

Also be careful when removing the return line plastic fittings from the top of the injector. These T-pieces cannot be purchased separately and the whole tube assembly is very expensive.

After the injectors were gitted I plugged the holes with nylon pieces and silicon and covered it with Butyl tape. The holes can now be reopened quite easily if you need to remove No4 or No5 injector again.

I hope the above information helps you
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Welcome to the forum.

The Injector extractor for Sprinter and 270 CDI will work.

The engine and the transmission should be lowered. This looked like a lot of risk to me so I did the following:

I made two holes with a chassis punch above each injector. The holes are slightly offset to accommodate the angle of the injector. The injector puller was then used through the hole. This will work fine if the injectors are not stuck because of a black carbon build up.

Here are some things to consider:

Remove and install only one injector at a time to ensure that no foreign objects falls into the head. I used a cloth wrapped around a 8mm plastic tube to remove any dirt that may be at the bottom of the injector sealing washer.

Always use new injector sealing washers and put a lot of Mercedes special white grease around the injector before inserting it into the head. The stretch bolts that clamps the injector down must also be replaced. Tighten the bolts to 7Nm + 90 degrees. Do not over tighten the bolts!

Also be careful when removing the return line plastic fittings from the top of the injector. These T-pieces cannot be purchased separately and the whole tube assembly is very expensive.

After the injectors were fitted I plugged the holes with nylon pieces and silicon and covered it with Butyl tape. The holes can now be reopened quite easily if you need to remove No4 or No5 injector again.

I hope the above information helps you
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  #16  
Old 15-04-2012
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Back to the catch can! ....do you need to have the flow through it to the turbo intake? Could you not just block off the turbo end and route a hose from the breather to anywhere convienient to fit the can? Would be a lot tidier too. Any thoughts.
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  #17  
Old 16-04-2012
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You need to be careful with pressurizing the system. To be safe it's far better to return to the intake after the oil is scrubbed from the blowby. Also if you are suggesting that you just vent out of the can like old fashioned breathers then this is very illegal and very obvious. It's only a little bit of mucking around with hose do best to do right.

Drover I got the shunt wiring off a merc forum and cross referenced to our wiring. I'll dig it out next time I'm on the PC. Cost is probably less than a beer. I've also shunted the swirl flap motor as I was getting MIL code from it before cleaning manifold.
  #18  
Old 16-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaitalia View Post
Back to the catch can! ....do you need to have the flow through it to the turbo intake? Could you not just block off the turbo end and route a hose from the breather to anywhere convienient to fit the can? Would be a lot tidier too. Any thoughts.
There is a sensor in the line so the computer will throw a code if the PCV systems blocked.

Here is a link to the EGR shunt, I've been meaning to have a play for a while, will see if I can mod it this week.

http://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w2...sable-mod.html

Jason
  #19  
Old 16-04-2012
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From my understanding of reading bodgies post and link, does the shunt (which leaves the EGR valve closed all the time) negate the purpose of the catch can? Or is there more to it than that?
  #20  
Old 17-04-2012
alfaitalia  alfaitalia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fester View Post
You need to be careful with pressurizing the system. To be safe it's far better to return to the intake after the oil is scrubbed from the blowby. Also if you are suggesting that you just vent out of the can like old fashioned breathers then this is very illegal and very obvious. It's only a little bit of mucking around with hose do best to do right.

Its not illegal in the UK. They are only interested in what comes out of the exhaust!! Also its the only way to stop ALL the oily air going through the intake system IMO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bodgie View Post
There is a sensor in the line so the computer will throw a code if the PCV systems blocked.
I doubt this due to the following. See link below where others have done it..... but Im happy to be proved wrong!

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB...ic.php?t=22703
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Last edited by alfaitalia; 17-04-2012 at 04:44 AM.
  #21  
Old 17-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMBCJ View Post
From my understanding of reading bodgies post and link, does the shunt (which leaves the EGR valve closed all the time) negate the purpose of the catch can? Or is there more to it than that?
Yes and no. The shutting of the EGR will stop the soot turning into sludge but it will not stop the oily blowby coating the inside of your intercooler and reducing the efficiency. You also still have the oiling up of the MAF and other sensors as well as the potential for a high mileage engine to start running on its own oil if bad enough. Depends on how much blowby you have as up whether the others issues warrant the effort of the can.
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