Upgrade path

[G.man]

All the JKU's in the US have 37's.

Why not go that direction since upgrading rubber anyway?

Lockers will get you out of more stuff than just a bigger wheel will, so like others said... go the bigger rubber, the bigger lift AND lockers. Otherwise it will always be like you did a half job.

[dimo]

Originally Posted by G.man

All the JKU's in the US have 37's.

Why not go that direction since upgrading rubber anyway.

Lockers will get you out of more stuff than just a bigger wheel will, so like others said... go the bigger rubber, the bigger lift AND lockers. Otherwise it will always be like you did a half job.

Everything will happen eventually, but due to various factors (most notably a wedding), I will have to do it in stages. Basically I can do a big upgrade now, and another one in maybe a few years time, just seeing which will give me the most bang for the buck.

I do not really want to go 37 without upgrading the axle..

[dru]

Originally Posted by dimo

Everything will happen eventually, but due to various factors (most notably a wedding), I will have to do it in stages.

^^^ This answers your question. Avoid doing anything now that you need to reverse or redo later.

So go with your 3.5" lift option. Personally I would look further than AEV as options, but I do acknowledge that AEV sets the standard. I would suggest doing 35" tyres if you are engineering - you dont want to have to do this again later.

[dimo]

Originally Posted by dru

^^^ This answers your question. Avoid doing anything now that you need to reverse or redo later.

So go with your 3.5" lift option. Personally I would look further than AEV as options, but I do acknowledge that AEV sets the standard. I would suggest doing 35" tyres if you are engineering - you dont want to have to do this again later.

Thanks for the reply. Any recommendations for other lifts? As far as I know only the AEV 3.5 and the DBOR can come with an engineering certificate as they have already previously passed, any others would have to be done from scratch.

As for 35s, I have asked for a quote, but it takes it to astronomical levels in terms of money. As I would not get much change for $20k.

[G.man]

Since you have to do it in stages... do the lockers first.

When you get around to changing wheel sizes etc, the upgrade now (lockers) will carry over and won't have to be re-done. That then gives you time to decide what next you want to do without losing what you did now.

So me, go the lockers. Huge improvement on what the rig will be capable off and regardless of what you decide to change next you wont need to throw the lockers to do new ones. So its an upgrade you can keep regardless of what next.

[samft]

Originally Posted by G.man

Since you have to do it in stages... do the lockers first.

When you get around to changing wheel sizes etc, the upgrade now (lockers) will carry over and won't have to be re-done. That then gives you time to decide what next you want to do without losing what you did now.

So me, go the lockers. Huge improvement on what the rig will be capable off and regardless of what you decide to change next you wont need to throw the lockers to do new ones. So its an upgrade you can keep regardless of what next.

hold on hold on

this is definitely a valid point...but lockers and diff centres come for different gearing ratios so it depends on what his current gearing ratio is.

Eaton lockers for the D30 come in two options. 3.54 ratio and down, or 3.73 and up.



Basically if your diff ratios aren't 3.73 or higher and you will regear to a higher ratio in future, a D30 locker you buy now wont work with the new gearing. At least if you use eaton's.




I don't think the same issue applies for the rear diff so you could get a rear locker fitted and you'll be good for a re-gear in future

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/publ.../ct_128302.pdf
check page 11

[YamahaDOC]

Come on there is no lockers first then re-gear in the future if you are trying to save money! Why pull it apart twice? Building a jk is like building a house. Variations will cost you money. Seriously work out a plan and then stick to the plan. If you desperately want lockers now think ahead and re gear for your final tyre size at the same time. I'm holding off because I can't commit to a plan. I running 33's and thinking of staying with the 3.73 since it's fine on road and great on the highway and maby going rubi x case. That way the d30 R and P stay strong and I might avoid going to a aftermarket 44 housing, I might just use a Terra flex D30 housing and move the guts over. Not sure