Quote:
Originally Posted by Macca2801
Ok, so humour me...
Those that have bought the JKS disconnect...are you fitting one disconnect at the front and one at the rear....or are you fitting two sets and disconnecting Both sides...both ends?
If it is the latter....WHY??
Once the one side is disconnected then the sawbar is unopperational and the still connected side locates the swaybar without the need to strap it up against the chassis.
Without measuring the links front and rear, at a quick glance they look the same and I dont see the point in purchasing two kits?
Please correct me if Im missing something.
Oh and fitted Front grab handles, Mopar slush mats and Mopar sill protectors.
Love the grab handles and sill guards....fit perfect and look great and work. Slush matss...wish I had seen the recents posts and got the Rugged Ridge ones and I will when these wear out.
Cheers Gents
Matt.
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coily sprung jeepers don't disconnect the rear swaybar usually as this removes alot of stability. no swaybars on a JK or TJ = one floppy and potentially tippy jeep.
leaving one side connected on the front will also end up with a whole lot of swaybar munching into steering/axle action as the side connected droops and when it compresses the swaybar would most likely attempt to remodel the bodywork/flare. its due to the way the swaybar is fitted, if they had mounted it on the axle rather than the chassis it wouldn't be a problem and you'd only have to disconnect one side as you have suggested (that is assuming you don't get more wheel travel than the potential extended length of the swaybar pointing towards axle + the length of the link, and in a JK in particular it is very easy to achieve enough axle articulation that the swaybar physically prevents further wheel travel - this is a potentially dangerous situation where the swaybar can get locked into a downward angle and i have had it happen to me!)