fridge/freezer

[bleetnblurt]

I just bought a waeco cf 50 , bloody thing is a little bigger than I thought
but will be placing a solar panel on the roof of the wj , and placing a deep cycle battery in BUT here is the thing : waeco battery supply are a 36 AH battery , I am looking at a 40 AH thing that comes to mind for me is, will this hurt the fridge freezer ? the little diff of 4 AH ? the cf 50 have three safety cut outs , I would not want to buy the 40 one if it kicks the safety thing in on the fridge , or should I just stick to getting a 36 AH ? ,
I bought this thing so I could carry food and my insulin in the jeep , but one thing I HATE is that slight chance of draining the battery for it , (even though it has a cut out thing) BUT I just don't want to risk it and prefer the separate battery . if anyone is up on these fridges (im sure there is) can you fill me in on this ?
as I do not have a real clue on this thing.

[Big Dave]

The bigger battery pack won't hurt the fridge at all, it just has a longer run time. It's not higher power but longer output. I have a 75ah battery that I run my cf50 for 4 weeks at a time with a 120w solar panel to keep it topped up.

[Gearloose]

As Big Dave has pointed out, the greater the amp-hour capacity, the longer it will run.

As an example, if the fridge is drawing 4 amps continuously (like in a hot environment or opened a lot to replace the beer) then a 36A/hr battery would run it for about 9 hours (a 40A/hr battery would run for about 10).
If the fridge is only at a 50% duty cycle, meaning that half the time the thermostat cuts out because it's cool enough, then it would run for 18 hours, (or 20 on a 40A/hr battery).

A cover will make it more efficient so that the thermostat isn't cutting in as frequently. If you can't find a cover locally, a canvas shop may be able to make one up... with the vents in the right position.

A 120watt solar panel is a good size. If it's in direct sunlight and produces up to 10 amps (120w/12v) into a discharged battery over a 4 hour period then it'll really help to keep it topped up.
Try to use the heaviest cable (6mm sq or greater) and shortest route for the wiring between the solar panel, battery and fridge.

A second deep cycle battery is definitely a good idea too, to avoid flattening the main one used to start the vehicle. If you can start the engine at least you can charge the battery, even if you have to jack it up and turn the rear wheels by hand with it in top gear. (No such luck if it's an auto)

Cheers

[bleetnblurt]

yes I have a auto and a 4.7L at that LOL
but I understand about the power bit 12v is 12 v , BUT just this silly thing has three cut out thingo on it , one for over , one for under power , so kind of threw me off a little , the system for the fridge will not have anything to do with the jeep at all its only job will be for the fridge , this thing also has some sort of energy saving thingy on it as well , yes I bought it with the cover as well , the only thing it doesn't do is wash down the cars (oh bugger) thanks guys for that and clearing my mind one this . ill keep to the 40 AH as the trips I do are short and mainly for keeping the meat and my insulin the same color ,

[Gearloose]

Mine didn't come with a manual, but there's a copy here that can be downloaded...

http://www.rpc.com.au/pdf/waeco_cool...-60_manual.pdf

Cheers

[layback40]

I wouldnt bother with mounting the solar panel on your roof. I was going to mount a solar panel on the roof of my camper. Then I realized that you would need to put it in the sun. So its best portable so the car & camper can be in the shade & the panel is on the ground in the sun. When traveling, the battery is connected to the cars electrical system so it is kept fully charged.

[Gearloose]

I just re-read the specs and it draws 7 amps, so a 40A/hr battery would run for about 5.7 hours continuously, or 11.4 hours at 50%.