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  #22  
Old 31-01-2018
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Originally Posted by Ed.. View Post
What device do you have connected to it, surge current can sometimes overload a circuit breaker but a 50A breaker should take care of most things such as a compressor and so forth. Although having said that there are different types of circuit breakers which react slower before switching off to compensate for surge.
Yes, I would have thought a 50 amp breaker would have been enough too. I tow my Camper trailer which has a DC-DC charger for a Deep cycle Battery.
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  #23  
Old 31-01-2018
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Don’t do it.... run a twin 60+ amp cable back to the battery with a 50amp circuit breaker. Whilst you may provide a good earth at the back end of the vehicle you are relying on the earth at the other end being perfect too. If the main earth falters you may find current running through other smaller earth circuits causing way more current than they were designed to handle. If you run a twin cable then it is no harder than running the positive only.


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  #24  
Old 31-01-2018
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Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
Don’t do it.... run a twin 60+ amp cable back to the battery with a 50amp circuit breaker. Whilst you may provide a good earth at the back end of the vehicle you are relying on the earth at the other end being perfect too. If the main earth falters you may find current running through other smaller earth circuits causing way more current than they were designed to handle. If you run a twin cable then it is no harder than running the positive only.


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What do you mean 60amp cable, how many gauge and cable length?
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  #25  
Old 31-01-2018
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Default Single main + cable to a Anderson plug

Sorry, 8 gauge (8 square mm) is enough but 6 gauge (14 square mm) would be preferable if you have the space to push it through. I ran 6 gauge in the Wrangler as it was easy access and simply ran it inside the chassis rail (in an external sheath as well) but on the Cherokee with limited space I used 8 gauge as it had to run through the firewall and under carpets to get into the rear area. Mine is only used for running the dc/dc charger and fridge in the van and I also use it to connect the compressor when coming back from the beach.

About $75 on eBay for the lot including 6m of cable, Anderson plug, battery connectors and 50amp breaker.


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Last edited by SeaComms; 31-01-2018 at 05:03 PM.
  #26  
Old 31-01-2018
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Default Anderson Plug

I usually only run a full length positive to the rear and always cover it with loom tubing for extra protection. If there was a problem with using the body as an earth then the manufacturers wouldn't do it would they. Whats the difference between a bad earth at the back were you connect it and one at the battery where they are usually prone to corrosion. If the factory earthing points are adequate from the battery to the body (or chassis on vehicles so equipped) you won't have a problem. The thing to watch is that the cabling is of adequate size to carry the load. I use 6BS cable rated at 100 amps given that most alternators are rated that and more now days. So I usually run a short 6BS cable from the battery neg to the body. I use star washers at both the anderson earth and battery earths and never have problems. I alway use a 100 amp midi fuse at the vehicles main battery and one at the secondary battery whether that is fitted in the rear of the vehicle or in a trailer/ camper. That way neither battery will feed a short. Lost count of how many I've done like that and when a customer is paying for it I don't want come backs. Oh and I always avoid fuel and brake lines if possible
All that said and done 10 m of 6BS single cable approx $30, 10m of 6BS twin core $70. Not much in it cost wise so what ever you feel comfortable with.
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Last edited by jaffazoom; 31-01-2018 at 08:04 PM.
  #27  
Old 01-02-2018
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Single positive wire from the jump start terminal under the bonnet to the Anderson plug positive and a short negative from the plug to a suitable earth point close by has worked for me since March 2016 with no issues encountered.
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