Hi Folks, dropped the ECU off to Murchison's and back same day $1100. There is only one Tune and web reference to Stage 2 is simply Tune plus hardware. The engine is willing from idle onwards now with the lag significantly reduced as the turbo is at ready to spool given EGR is now off at idle. I'd question why you would need an iDrive as well came to mind. My initial thoughts are simply more linear power on and the 0-100 puts a smile on. I can see why people can be disappointed as they will expect major change for their dollars but this engine is already up their in performance. What I noticed in the 0-100 is the jeep is changing up the many gears quickly as we all know well and the bonnet lift is noticeably higher in the air from the additional torque as Quadralift owners will know what I mean. Also you actually know the additional torque is certainly on the boil in the higher loaded gears so will be a hoot to overtake. On a long highway drive today, I found my foot noticeably off the throttle and slightly more sensitive. So I can see a small economy gain perhaps but I don't really care about that aspect. In summary, it just makes this a sweeter engine. My mate has the same MY Jeep and he could notice the punchier claim. For me the decision was made when I pulled the MAP out and covered in oil muck (totally) so I did the Tune to turn the EGR off foremost as car will be long term. Then against all my past critical comments on waste of time catch cans, in went a Flashlube catch can following Drover's pic and advice on hardware.
Murchison's Intercoolers are now version 2 with slightly less in size for fitting and also bonus efficiency claim (I can understand this as two big can defeat purpose). But unlike the web claim, its a 2 month wait so you could imagine the disappointment walking away with just a Tune. If I find an IC suitable will bolt one in as after looking further, I'm going to pull the ECB bullbar off and remove that polystyrene left over and move the horns out of the airflow as the bullbar certainly does not help airflow unfortunately.
So I've looked at every graph online, all comments etc, and after getting it done, I wish I had done it asap for the primary EGR turn off and I also learnt that it does not really change the new drive experience if you just up 100nm or 120nm plus dynoed or not as the overall experience will be just as good. I left the EGR pipe in place and just removed the metal gasket EGR side and replace with a handmade galvanised Gutter downpipe (new of course) tin fabricated for the job, sealant on inlet side of handmade gasket as don't want a pressure leak. Hope this helps anybody out.