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Old 1 Week Ago
Hammertone  Hammertone is offline
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Default cost to upgrade a sport to rubi spec

My beloved WJ is just causing me too many problems so im looking into buying a JK and im trying to work out if i want a sport or rubicon. The car will be my daily driver but ill be taking it on as difficult trails as im personally able to drive. I will use the full features of the rubi, and if i bought a sport i'd want to modify it over time to the same or better capability as the rubi.

I have the option of a very low km sport with the 3.6 motor or a rubi with the 3.8 with 80,000 ks.

My question is: If i want to modify the drivetrain of the sport to a similar or better capability as the rubi, how much will it cost, ballpark? the aim is to run 35s.

My understanding is that i'll have to re-gear both diffs and add lockers. Am i right in believing that if i re-gear the diffs, i wont really need to re-gear the t-case? Will i want to replace the front axle of the sport if i go for 35s? if so, how much would this cost?

Thanks for your insights!

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dimo  dimo is offline
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Main differences are front and rear Dana 44 axles, front and rear lockers, and a 4:1 transfer case, electronic disconnects.

If you want Rubi spec just buy a Rubi, if you want better than Rubi spec than a Sports with mods might be the right avenue.

Having said that, look into you state laws for running 35s, in some states its either illegal or require major mods to get it engineered. Which state are you in?
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Hammertone  Hammertone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimo View Post
Main differences are front and rear Dana 44 axles, front and rear lockers, and a 4:1 transfer case, electronic disconnects.

If you want Rubi spec just buy a Rubi, if you want better than Rubi spec than a Sports with mods might be the right avenue.

Having said that, look into you state laws for running 35s, in some states its either illegal or require major mods to get it engineered. Which state are you in?
Im in Vic, but not too worried about pushing the limits legally.

I forgot about the axle. So for the front im going to need a complete new D44, or otherwise, beef up the D30 as well as re-gear and locker.

If i got the rubi would i run into any road blocks in terms of modding? i want a very capable truck, but itll still be a DD so im not after a comp truck. Will i want anything better than what the Rubi has to offer do you reckon? Are the lockers up to scratch? Are there any weak points in the Rubi that you'd probably want to replace with aftermarket?
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My 2009 JKU Rubicon is my DD - 40mm lift and 33's - all legal. No issues at all and while I don't off-road nearly as hard as I used to, I would reckon you won't find a spot a Rubicon won't get you through with no problems. Even a sport, while it has a D33 and no lockers will get you through most things you'll face.

Also, since Rubicons come with slightly different factory specs it allows you more wiggle room to mod in terms of tires etc.
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eksjay  eksjay is offline
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If your wrangler will become your DD, you ought to test drive the Pentastar v the minivan donk. Try it in traffic and on the open road if the vendor allows.

Methinks the daily driver bit will be the determining factor.

If you go the sport, can add anything aftermarket to your liking and budget. The older the car gets, the less likely you will be to source stealer parts and service. The more vanilla it is, the better to explore after market options like a crate axle, lockers, suspension etc.

Last edited by eksjay; 1 Week Ago at 11:25 AM.
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dimo  dimo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammertone View Post
Im in Vic, but not too worried about pushing the limits legally.

I forgot about the axle. So for the front im going to need a complete new D44, or otherwise, beef up the D30 as well as re-gear and locker.

If i got the rubi would i run into any road blocks in terms of modding? i want a very capable truck, but itll still be a DD so im not after a comp truck. Will i want anything better than what the Rubi has to offer do you reckon? Are the lockers up to scratch? Are there any weak points in the Rubi that you'd probably want to replace with aftermarket?
If you're in Vic, you're looking at about $20k to run 35s legally (D2s + AEV lift). Which is why most people just take their chance with the police. A Rubi with 35s on will get you to most places and if taken care of should be relatively bulletproof.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammertone View Post
I forgot about the axle. So for the front im going to need a complete new D44, or otherwise, beef up the D30 as well as re-gear and locker.
New housing will add to your total weight, if you are hard on your drivetrain, upgrading the housing, gearing and axle shafts will help. If you are reasonably sympathetic to the mechanicals of your Jeep, maybe beef up the D30. Perhaps a donor front axle from a wrecked Rubicon would suffice?

Quote:
Are the lockers up to scratch? Are there any weak points in the Rubi that you'd probably want to replace with aftermarket?
The e-lockers that come with the Rubicon are good, not subject to leaks as airlockers I have seen tend to be. The big difference is the disconnecting sway bar from inside the cabin, but there are a multitude of aftermarket options that allow for the front axle to articulate further in the sport models.

I'd avoid the Rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect system unless you are buying rubicon, as it is not as sealed as they suggest, is prone to periodic malfunction ,and I have pulled mine off and cleaned/regreased it a few times to offset this.
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dimo  dimo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NTRubicon View Post
as it is not as sealed as they suggest, is prone to periodic malfunction ,and I have pulled mine off and cleaned/regreased it a few times to offset this.
There are a few aftermarket items that are supposed to remedy this, I think EVO have a air based system that can be operate from inside the cabin.
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dont forget diff ratios 4.11...if u want 35s, 4.56 is prolly better suited
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