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Old 14-03-2006
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They're good links to the tools Wooders.

That's a very different approeach Glenn. AMC 360 and hydraulic pump I don't know that I'm that cutting edge though. And I'm pretty sure you wouldn't get away with it in WE Rock and XRCC. I think you're right about the 110" though. I've seen longer buggies and I think they might be a bit too long for tight courses.

Does anyone know what an off-the-shelf tube chassis costs from someone like Overkill or ABT? Also, what program would I go about using to design a chassis?

If the cost of a chassis was under $4.5k, I'd probably just get an off the shelf one with some custom changes, and build the rest of it myself. If not, I'd tinker with designs to see if I could come up with something that worked.

Once I sort out chassis/engine/diff decisions, I might start putting something togther in the garage as a side project that would get built over time (10-12 months). The bonus being I could take time because I still have the Jee-Q to drive.
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Last edited by maddog; 14-03-2006 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 14-03-2006
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Mogs up the Sunshine Coast for $1500, both steer!

Off the shelf frame from Haultech is approx $2500.
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Old 14-03-2006
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Jeez.. that's pretty good!

Maybe I can win some cash at TTC to fund the beginnings of the project

My thoughts so far are Lexus V8, front mounted, 110" wheelbase, mog diffs, air shocks, 4 link front and rear, dual ram hydro steer. Still unsure about which auto gearbox and t/case to use.
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Last edited by maddog; 14-03-2006 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 14-03-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddog
My thoughts so far are Lexus V8, front mounted, 110" wheelbase, mog diffs, air shocks, 4 link front and rear, dual ram hydro steer. Still unsure about which auto gearbox and t/case to use.
Why front mounted... ?
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Old 14-03-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddog
Does anyone know what an off-the-shelf tube chassis costs from someone like Overkill or ABT?
Depends if you ask or go through the right people.
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Old 14-03-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ann
Why front mounted... ?

Why rear mounted?

My thoughts are this. You drive up to a wall, push the front wheels against it and they drive up. Hopefully when the fronts are starting to level out, the rears will start to climb. If you have a front mount, the bulk of the weight is already at the top of the climb and possibly resting on level ground, whereas rear mount, the weight is all at the bottom, and there's no weight over the front wheels to help you get up. So basically in a rear mount, your rear wheels are pushing the majority of the weight up the climb with your front wheels doing nothing much.

Anyone think that's incorrect?
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Last edited by maddog; 14-03-2006 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 14-03-2006
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rear mounted = alot of weight in your ass pushing down on the rear tyres giving extra traction
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