DC - DC Charger

[GPCDR]

Hi Jono,
I also haven't been on here in a while. As stated the Waeco fridge and most brands have a cutout to save the battery from total discharge. This will also cut in due to a voltage drop over wiring distance. Dc to Dc have their place but are not required in most cases to correct charge issues as they are advertised.

My setup is as follows and has working on new and old vehicles for the last 15 years. Main battery is connected through a Traxide microprocessor controller battery isolator by 16mm2 dual core cable to a battery in the rear of the JK and from there to an anderson plug. The camper plugs into this by 16mm2 cable to its 130Ah AGM. One of the advantages of the Traxide unit is I can choose to connect all batteries, isolate at a set voltage or even back feed charge from the rear.

My recommendation is before you spend money on Dc to Dc chargers chat to Tim at Traxide. www.traxide.com.au

Sent from my SM-G900I using Aussie Jeep Offroad mobile app

[RLT]

Its always recommended to regularly charge your battery with an appropriate Digital charger such as a CTEK which has the correct option for AGM charging to prevent premature capacity loss.

Off the Optima site
'Alternators are NOT chargers. Don't rely on your alternator to do the work of a charger.
An alternator is meant to maintain a battery, not charge it.'

https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...ng-agm-battery

[GPCDR]

Between trips I have my camper connected to a mains charger to keep the agm battery in peak condition.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Aussie Jeep Offroad mobile app

[Nanook]

I do the same, I have a CTEK charger mounted to the camper trailer to a 130Ah AGM. It sits permanently on charge between trips.

When away I top it up with solar if I'm gone for a week or more.

[Banshee]

I'm confused. Is the fridge in the back of the car connected to the 2 optimas and not starting, or in the camper connected to the AGM & solar & not starting?