Got a late 2005 GC-L WH

[WilliamAR]

Heyo!,
some days ago we(family car) got a 2005 WH GC limited CRD(LHD) in white for real cheap and.. oh boy she's got some checkered history and needs lots of love and i have a mountain of questions.



I've been eagerly reading Alex's thread https://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum...d.php?t=158565 (still haven't finished i think i'm up to page 25+) and several other to get my bearings.

Facts about the car:

She's got upward of 250K (i'm pretty sure the odometer has been tampered), always serviced at the stealership and got the service records up until 2016ish and then they end, nothing major got done: full fluid changes(inc gearbox!), all glowplugs, shocks

Previous owner bought it a ~3 years ago and it was in rough shape, barely ran, billowed extremely heavy black smoke no power high consumption, he took it to shady mechanics and now we got it from him.

It has a new turbo (previous one was toast) -my father rebuilt it-, swirl linkages removed, new nozzles on the injectors(maybe), and "maybe" EGR disabled/fiddled with(and when they reassembled it they stripped and bent the bolt, so they left it crooked with a regular nut), cats emptied, and "maybe" the intake manifolds got cleaned).
Previous owner is a ******** and he takes it to the shadiests most shitty mechanics he can find, so that's why i don't have certainty about some of the stuff done plus we contacted them and they flat out lied.

There was no turbo intake seal so the entire back of the V is caked in oil, it seems it has a LOT of oil dump through the PCV. glowplug module was disconnected, there was no stabilizer bar on top of the engine.

There's one engine cover "hook" missing, the right one, but i can't find it anywhere, no plastic on the hooks and the engine cover is broken on that side that hooks to the guides too, the covers for the heads is also missing.

Interior is... rough, upholstery on the driver seat is broken, roof has obvious water stains so the sunroof drain is probably clogged, the handle on the glovebox is missing(i can't find the part number for that either), i need to get it to the detailers urgently(and also to get a good engine wash).


The radio command buttons on the back side of the steering wheel are all wonky, i have a used steering wheel to install already.
You can also see the front parking sensor display on top of the dash ¿is it stock?

Exterior has a nasty ding on the right back door, the headlamps are yellowed and need polishing

I haven't driven it enough to see if i have the usual clunking noises attributed to the rear bushings

HVAC and radio works, back up camera works, frontal parking sensor display has several of the led bars and segments broken(i'm not sure if it's stock).

4LO engages with no issue.

all 4 TPMS sensors report ok(i say 4 because it's not detecting the spare one)

Got jscan and the service manual and did a thorough scan

Engine bay as i got it, showing the missing right hook and missing bar, the bar i got it from one of the shady mechanics and already installed.


There are 2 recalls on my VIN that i'm sure got never done: N23 and transfer case, from what i've read the transfer case recall is controversial, i need to book an appointment for the stealership to do them.



Problems and stuff i did:


I've already opened a couple threads about some of the issues, i have a really serious parasitic draw issue that i haven't had time to chase and a nasty extreme smoke on start.
for injectors i recoded them correctly and cleaned the learned values, the knob that changed the nozzles reinstalled them in whatever order he pleased

Pedal adjustment is not working, it was missing the relay and the fuse, replaced them but when i push the buttons i hear a click and nothing moves, not really a priority
Changed fuel, oil/filter and air filter, included air filter was not even the correct one and very dirty, cleaned the airbox, maf, elephant tube and PCV hose.

Installed proper turbo and PCV red seals

ETC light is on all the time

Adjusted TPMS thresholds back to factory, some knob had it set at 40psi. The spare tire inner tube is cracked and missing the valve, ¿can this be changed?, i don't want to believe that i need to change an entire tpms sensor because of a broken inner tube+valve. EVIC is not detecting the spare tire(no errors, no codes)

This is a photo from the fuse box, ¿why am i missing the rad fan hi/lo and rad fan relays and rad fan fuse, are they not used for the CRD?(apparently it doesn't need them because it's hydraulic?), i've seen another guide here about the fuses and in those photos they're also missing, in jscan trying to actuate the fan does nothing(fan hi/lo), the fan starts spinning at low speed as soon as i start the engine.


another oddity i encountered: whilst the engine is running, the HVAC relay gets hot, but the hvac is off(it's in auto mode with fan in O position as in the photos show)

There's a nasty dent on the lower rad, and that gunk buildup i'm pretty sure the intercooler has a pinhole


The ambient temp sensor is flapping around in the breeze, ¿where does it get afixed to?

Broken LED and 7-segment display from front parking sensors: s you can see in the fash photo, i'm not sure if that sensor is stock(it certainly does NOT look like a factory sensor) has several segments broken, ¿how can i find a replacement?


i have a couple of DTCs:
U1008
Disconnected the GPM but the error persists, according to manual i have to disconnect the LIN from the alternator... ¿how the hell am i supposed to reach it?, there's no room anywhere!, i'm referencing chirpz guide on how to swap it but since i'm not doing that, ¿how the blazes i'll get to the connector?. Oh my alternator does not have the plastic roof to prevent oil falling on top., it looks cacked-ish in oil.
also tested the GPM connector LIN pin against b+ and gnd(with battery disconnected) and there appears to be no short at all.

Measured the glowplugs and they all are below 1R except #5 which is at 8R, probably toasted...

O2 sensor DTCs:
P2243, P0131, P0135
As far as i can see the sensor is in place and connected properly, today i cleared the codes checking the U1008 and those erors did not show again, but i didn't start the engine after clearing. ¿could this be causing the stuck ETC light?

I need to take a look at the tuning aspect, i want to install a tune to disable EGR, swirl and O2 sensor(can the o2 sensor be disabled), ¿with those things disabled should i get DTCs about them?
I also have a chinese provent with steel mesh that i could install on the left side(bought it for the Amarok, never installed it, there's surprisingly no room for it).


Will update as ongoing, just like Alex, but sadly i don't have as many tools or space to do everything myself (or the time).

edit 1:
I just discovered the radiator fan is hydraulic, ¿¡¿wth was merc thinking?!?!, ¿¡¿¡who puts a hydraulic motor for a fan motor instead of the very tired and true electro-fans???!?!?, not to mention is absolutely bonkers-insane expensive from what i've seen.
Added question about front parking sensor display

[alexbrown64]

Good write up.
Hopefully Clarky can chime in with some advice.

I would say just work through all your issues slowly and methodically.
Clear all codes in JScan, as some might be old stored codes.
Our relays are missing too. Must be a CRD thing.
Turn off TPMS in JScan. It’s a pain, and you you don’t need the hassles.
Have a look at my Kess tuning. You do need a Windows laptop, but it’s cheap and easy. Contact The Tuning Company, or look at the links I have up for all their options. The codes should all go away for anything like swirl flaps, EGR etc..
You probably have to do all the regular stuff like front diff bushes, rear CV on front drive shaft etc..

I think all the alternators have oil on them. But, if it’s working, all good.
Throw the Chinese catch can away. They really are junk.
Definitely do a boost leak check. Fix all leaks.
Run some good injector cleaner.
Replace the glow plug module with a used updated version. Should be able to get one cheap. Then make sure all glow plugs operating.

Once you have no boost leaks, a new remap with all the deletes, glow plugs all working and car running smooth, it may be time to visit the injectors with a simple leak down test.
Keep us posted with how it’s all going..

Cheers,

[WilliamAR]

Originally Posted by alexbrown64

Good write up.
Hopefully Clarky can chime in with some advice.

I would say just work through all your issues slowly and methodically.
Clear all codes in JScan, as some might be old stored codes.
Our relays are missing too. Must be a CRD thing.
Turn off TPMS in JScan. It’s a pain, and you you don’t need the hassles.
Have a look at my Kess tuning. You do need a Windows laptop, but it’s cheap and easy. Contact The Tuning Company, or look at the links I have up for all their options. The codes should all go away for anything like swirl flaps, EGR etc..
You probably have to do all the regular stuff like front diff bushes, rear CV on front drive shaft etc..

I think all the alternators have oil on them. But, if it’s working, all good.
Throw the Chinese catch can away. They really are junk.
Definitely do a boost leak check. Fix all leaks.
Run some good injector cleaner.
Replace the glow plug module with a used updated version. Should be able to get one cheap. Then make sure all glow plugs operating.

Once you have no boost leaks, a new remap with all the deletes, glow plugs all working and car running smooth, it may be time to visit the injectors with a simple leak down test.
Keep us posted with how it’s all going..

Cheers,

The codes are all cleared, should've clarified that, those codes are static, i'm wondering if the O2 sensor failures can cause the stuck ETC light.

I did look at your kess tuning and was comparing prices from local tuners vs buying the kess+tuning, as it's pretty expensive and local tuners don't charge that much(side note, the url you listed in your post for the tuning company has changes and opens a german website)
Boost leak, it's not super high on the list as i don't have that adapter and from a quick search i can't get it locally. Plus if the IC is punctured.. oh by that's gonna be expensive and not for now(unless i find a used IC) not to mention the procedure to remove it(absolutely no idea, would have to check the manual if it's specified).

I have to see if i can find the seals for the turbo outlet pipe, to change preventively, from your pictures i think it was a size 035 silicone oring

About the GPM, it's not certain it's broken, as with it disconnected the U1008 remains and i'm worried it might be the alternator itself, which is another can of worms as i'd have to find the part # to replace the electronic "backpack"

¿do you use any particular website to find the part numbers?, i've been using rockauto selecting the MY2007 car, but the issue is that the CRD WH for USA is from 2007, and mine is a 2005(and in rockauto the 2005 does not have the CRD engine)

that's the plan, to work the issues one by one, but i need more info for a lot of them

[alexbrown64]

We have the 2005 and 2010 WH CRD. I use Rockauto for most parts and just pump in the 2008 model number. Pretty much the OM642 engine and drive train didn’t change through all those years.
I also use IDparts for a lot of parts and part numbers.
The intercooler is plastic and aluminium. Pretty sure if there is a leak it can be fixed.
I leave all those plastic and foam engine covers off, including the bash plate underneath. Find it so much easier to work on the car.
Kess is $75 US delivered and a tune was $25, which included free deletes.

https://thetuningcompany.com/ I don’t see anything German. They are based in UK and the software is sent via email.
Get the Kess hardware on Ebay.

Cheers,

[WilliamAR]

We managed to get some time to work on it today and there's some updates:

Following the U1008 troubleshooting, had to access from below to disconnect the alternator LIN connector, to my surprise, there's NO connector!.
Instead there's a crimped eye and a corresponding stud on the back of the alternator, ¿what in the nine hells happened here?, Alternator is original chrysler, part # 04801250AA / Valeo T17C028 which corresponds to the vehicle, and from every photos i can find on the internet it has the regular plug.
Our theory is that it broke at some point and they hacked the regulator module with that stud, because it sure as hell does not look original, ¿can anyone confirm?




In any case, after disconnecting the alternator and reconnecting the GPM, !U1008 dissapeared!, now i get a P0675 which is GP #5 (the one that measured 8ohm) and a P1648 which is GPM open DTC, manual essentially says to replace the module. ¿any other ideas?(will have to check for either used modules or aliexpress).

Also got a U1132 which is comms lost to alternator as expected, but i have a loaned regulator module which we wired all cobbled up and that DTC also vanishes.

So i need a new regulator module for this valeo alternator model AND a new connector, ¿does anyone know what type of connector it is?

I also have two new DTCs: C141D and C1417 which are front and read diff control circuit low, i'm not gonna bother with them much as i have to leave the battery unplugged and maybe that issue comes from that(even if i cleared them and they remain).

O2 sensor DTCs dissapeared by themselves

But the ETC light still remains fixed on.

On the battery drain side, i noticed that at some point the interior lights flickered -i attributed this to the ignition switch- but a couple days ago i was reading ALL the TSBs for the WH and found: 08-015-07 which says "Flash:Sunroof Module, Excessive Ignition Off Draw, Pop In Radio with Ignition Off, Dome Lamp Flickers And May Not Go Off" Well i have excessive draw... dome lights flickering, but no pop, solution is to have stealership reflash the module
I'm stilll checking the rest of the TSBs and i'll compile a list so that when i take it to the stealership to do the N23 and ignition recall they also perform all the TSBs available


Other stuff:
Enabled tip start with jscan and works perfectly
Tested the hydro fan with jscan as well(turns out it is in the "front control module" in jscan instead of powertrain), turns on to 100% but only for some seconds and goes back to idle, i don't know if the output activation is supposed to work that way or not, using "toggle" on the activation activates it only once as well.
Power washed the radiators, they look much better without the chunk of gunk they had, the fins are all bashed i'm unsure on how to proceed(taking it to a radiator shop to open them or just sit and straighten up one by one with a flat screwdriver.
Mostly all rubber parts of the suspension are shot
Also noticed that there are impact witness marks on the inside part of the pivot housing -no idea what to call it- where it hits the turn limit on the lower control arm for turning right, right side has a lot of marks, left not so much(the photo uploaded inverted vertically):

the entire underside of the engine and bell housing are caked in oil

the front parking sensor i think definitely is aftermarket:

no idea where can i find a replacement (not a priority)


And a lot of the original questions i posted in the first post which i still haven't gotten a solution like the front parking sensor, power draw, spare tpms, tpms stem, etc

[WilliamAR]

Tackled the GPM repair: followed one YT video guidance and some forum tips to repair, but changed the method a little ¿why use a hand saw when i have a dremel?, did an angled cut so that the "lid" will lock in place when replaced and not fall inside, used a flat carbide router bit to eat away at the bonded wire to clean the pads and then used heavy gauge copper enamel wire with S shape for strain relief(for thermal expansion and vibration).


Plugged it in and it worked like a charm, engine started more easily, 10v observed when active heating and ~1.8v for post-heating for a couple minutes, no more P1648
No discernible change to smoke produced, maybe a tad less

Then we filled the hole left in the dielectric compound with black RTV, every other guide just leaves it flapping around in the breeze.


Tomorrow when it hardens we'll place the lid and seal with more RTV, better than new, money saved!

next up... who knows

¿Clarky, where art thou?

[WilliamAR]

More updates:
took the car to another specialist injector shop as we don't trust the original one, on the way there the car has a LOT of hesitation at low rpm around 1200rpm it hesitates (it's the first drive it has).
According to the shop, the HPFP is dumping fuel inside the valvetrain and we have to change the oil as it's heavily dilluted(this is NEW oil, the car was never driven after the oil change only the engine turned on for some minutes for various tests since i started the thread, i'm not convinced nor happy it's quite expensive to change the oil). They have to take the pump out this week and see what seals need to be changed and THEN check the injectors, the repair $$$ is rising considerably.....

On the road we discovered we have a clogged roof drain, the entire roof liner is damp on the passenger side(there are clear signs this has happened for a long time as the liner is all stained).

And we also found about the dome lights staying on all the time which i opened a thread about.


¿any ideas?