Welding and Fabriction advice 101

[bruggz351]

Awesome.. Thanks man..

[murray]

solid wire is ok make sure you pre heat thhe weld area to remove the moisture and chill factor from the casting,
also weld only in the plug holes in the pumpkin

[bruggz351]

Originally Posted by murray

solid wire is ok make sure you pre heat thhe weld area to remove the moisture and chill factor from the casting,
also weld only in the plug holes in the pumpkin

Thanks murray.
Why only weld in the plug holes?
Would I remove the push in plug and fill the hole completely with weld?

Reason I ask is everything I find on the web (which must be right...right?) suggests welding the total circumference of the tube. Although this is all American, kings of the overkill...

To be honest if I only need to weld the plugs I'll be very happy.

cheers

[murray]

THE REASONING BEHIND THIS IS AS FOLLOWS
the tubes should be a shrink fit in the pumpkin
the plug welds only locate and lock the tubes in the pumpkin
if you weld circumferencaly around the tube the weakest point will be
the edge of the weld to the tube as this will be were the flex point would be
and this is were the stress will acumulate
when they are only plug welded the total flex is assorbed into the pumpkin
so no cracking will occure in this area

[bruggz351]

cool, thanks for your knowledge murray.

I feel alot better now. I have no qualms with my welding ability but when it comes to metallurgy etc, you've lost me.

cheers

[Turismo07]

Hi guys,

Just wondering if there is anything that needs to be done to a vehicle if welding directly on it? what I mean is the part I want to weld is fitted to the Jeep and I want to know if the current from the welder will kill my elecs or not, or is there something that I can do to prevent that.

I've seen in the past that exhaust shops seem to place something on the batt when they weld up the exhausts etc..

What I'm considering doing:
Out wheeling the other day and my front right shocky's top nut decided to strip its threads and come off leaving my shocky loose in the wheel well.

I tried to just remove it on the trail by removing the 2 bottom nuts and bolts as well. I got one of them off but the other was so rusted that the nut turned the bolt free - its one of those bolts that has a round head but teeth on the shaft that are supposed to lock into whatever they're holding onto, in this case the bar pin of the shocky (sorry if I explained that really badly). So what I ended up with is a free spinning bolt that I can't hold onto with a rusted/ceased nut on it..

So my dilemma is how to remove the bottom bolt on the shocky so that I can remove the shock completely. Thinking that I could tack weld the round head bolt in place on the bar pin so that I can undo the nut (with lots of WD40 of course) with fingers crossed the bolt doesn't snap.

OR for the interim, because I don't have a replacement shock (and I need to be able to drive my Jeep safely), just get a nut back on the top stem and tack weld it to keep it there (as the threads are stripped and will just come right off again) until I get a new pair of shocks.

Thanks for any suggestions you can give

[murray]

when doing any welding always make sure that the earth is as close to were you are welding
personaly i would disconnect the battery
as far as welding a nut onto the top of the shock
is the thread damaged all the way up it ?
if not use washers as spacers to lift were the nut would sit to a area that still has some thread on it
if it is stripped all the way the i would weld a piece of flat bar with a hole drilled in it this will alloy down the weld mix also it gives you some ware close to attach the earth to.
send me a pm with a contact phone # ill run through it with you as you are in perth