Morgs' Offroad Trailer/Camper Build

[Morgs]

I Thought I better start a new thread. The wife and I are heading to the cape at the end of July this year and need a camper trailer. After much research and drawing up plans I am just about ready to start building.

Keeping it simple it wil be a standard 6 x 4 trailer with a Gordigear roof top tent.

The intended specs for the trailer are as follows:

Chassis (outer): 65x35x2.5 rhs
Chassis (inner cross beams and corners) right angled steel 30x30x3
Tyres: 31x8
Rims: 15x7 tj alloy rims
The box: 2.5 or 3mm aluminium checker plate
Suspension: Whichever leaf springs I pick up from the wreckers
Coupling: Treg
Tail lights: Led recessed

The rear tailgate will swing out to the passenger side. In front of the roof top tent will be a door that will be hinged on the top edge of the box. Both doors will be dust/water sealed with rubber.

As the camper will be pulled up the creb track it will need to be able to cop a pounding. All lights exepct the rear number plate lights will be recessed into the frame. I expect it will be incredibly light. Usually the wife and I fit our camping gear in the back of the tj with the dog have a spot to sit on the floor. Having the trailer will hopefully mean the dog will have more room. No fridge, no massive water tank.

There is a spot for a single fuel jerry and a water jerry. I'll put a number of tie down points inside the box. If we ever need to take two fuel jerry's the water jerry's could go in the trailer. To ease the vibrations in the trailer I will probably have shocks. The trailer floor will be lined with soft rubber matting and the concreting foam in the below pic will go in between the chassis and the aluminium box. The foam is fairly firm but will probably compact down from 10mm to 3mm or 2mm.

These are the plans I have come up with using Google Sketch:










This last photo shows how the roof top tent will be mounted. Tent will unfold towards the front.


This is some of the stuff I have picked up so far:

Tregg hitch from ebay


Rear led lights from ebay. Number plate led lights, cable and plug from repco. Foam from bunnings (concreting).

I am hoping to have the trailer fabbed up in time for coffs. It will most likely be without the tent and final touches though, but hopefully rego'ed and on the road for coffs.

[XJKEE]

Looks like another good project on the way. Don't forget to post uo heaps of pics.

[Morgs]

Today I managed to pull myself away from the cricket to fab up the 6mm plate that the tregg hitch will be welded to. I love having plans drawn up to the mm. Makes cutting steel so much quicker and easier.

[Morgs]

Originally Posted by XJKEE

Looks like another good project on the way. Don't forget to post uo heaps of pics.

Will keep the pics flowing. I am hoping to pick up the aluminium and steel this saturday. I tried to pick it up last weekend but the local metalcorp decided to just not open last saturday.

Is there anyone in Brisbane with a TIG welder who is happy to weld three sides to the floor? All 2.5 or 3mm aluminium checker plate. I'll cut it to size. I obviously can't weld aluminium with my inverter arc. Name your price either cash or beer. 2 x 1830mm beads, 1 x 1320mm bead and 2 x 450mm beads.

[Gojeep]

I would change the design of the draw bar attachment if it was mine. There is an awful lot of stress at that point and why you don't see them mounted like that normally, especially an offroad trailer. Be better if the draw bar went under the box frame and terminated at the front of the spring mounts. Do not however weld across the top of the frame as it goes under the box frame. I have plans on my site if that help you any.
Just giving a suggestion, that is all.

Cheers

[Morgs]

Originally Posted by Gojeep

I would change the design of the draw bar attachment if it was mine. There is an awful lot of stress at that point and why you don't see them mounted like that normally, especially an offroad trailer. Be better if the draw bar went under the box frame and terminated at the front of the spring mounts. Do not however weld across the top of the frame as it goes under the box frame. I have plans on my site if that help you any.
Just giving a suggestion, that is all.

Cheers

GoJeep I spent alot of time looking at your site. It is an awesome resource. I'm following the suggestion re the setup of the leaf springs (front lower then the rear.

You are not the only one to suggest the usual "A" frame draw bar be welded under the frame of the box. I accept that this would make the trailer stronger. What I am really trying to do is design and have a trailer that is incredibly lightweight. I don't want to be towing even half a ton around. I want a trailer that I don't have to worry about taking up and down steep tracks. I am putting a roof top tent on it to save weight (weighs 53 kg).

The draw bar is only a metre in front of the box. The longer springs that I will be running mean that the front spring mount is only 350mm behind the front corners of the box. With bugger all weight sitting on the draw bar and using the trailer with a considerably less amount of weight then most camper trailers I think that the bracing that I will be putting in the corners will be sufficient. If I am wrong and it cracks I will have to change it.


This is a close up of the bracing. The outside of the frame will be bent rather then cut and welded.

[XJKEE]

Trailers always end up heavier than you expect. Many people told me mine would weigh more than I thought and they right in the long run - just something to think about.