Winch Isolator Switch on Negative

[AusTac]

On my runva install i put the isolator on the + side closest to the battery possible, if it melts i still have enough cable to just attatch it directly if out bush, try re routing your cables, took me about 3 times till i was happy with it, i found i had the perfect amount of cable for my 3.8 jk, otherwise find/make a bigger wire out of the same guage wiring

[rang0]

Attach the negative to you engine block. Put the isolator on the posi because it could still earth out on your bull bar. You do want to isolate it. I have been told about people in the nt with a hair clip hot wireing the winch through the control box plug. Also you will know that it could never be tripped.

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[Wazza D]

Ideally the isolator should be as close to the battery as possible, on the positive side of course.
Having said that, my 500A isolator is mounted on the bulbar for convenience and it also is the source of power to my auxiliary plug on the front. It is also able to be padlocked.
If you do it this way, be very sure that your cable between the battery and the isolator switch is well routed, secured, insulated and is pretty much impossible to be damaged!
Note that the winch burnout that I had a couple of years ago originated at the actual winch.

[Nanook]

The easiest solution is to buy one of these winch isolation cables. They are longer than what comes with the winch.

Use this as your positive lead and use your original positive lead as your negative. To stop any confusion, cover the lead with black electrical tape or black heat shrink if you feel the need to.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BATTERY-P...item45f38102cf

[Hayesio]

The best winch setup, in my opinion, is to have the solenoid mounted under the bonnet next to the battery. Wire a rocker switch in to the cabin as one control system, and buy a ebay wireless relay and remote control (about 15 bucks) as another control system. Cuts down all the crap hanging off your bullbar and makes it look neat, removes the need for an isolator and keeps the solenoid a hell of a lot more reliable as its away from the elements. With the solenoid under the bonnet, it will also be tamper proof (if you have a look on you bonnet...). That's what I run anyway, wouldn't do it any other way.

[milky01]

Originally Posted by Hayesio

The best winch setup, in my opinion, is to have the solenoid mounted under the bonnet next to the battery. Wire a rocker switch in to the cabin as one control system, and buy a ebay wireless relay and remote control (about 15 bucks) as another control system. Cuts down all the crap hanging off your bullbar and makes it look neat, removes the need for an isolator and keeps the solenoid a hell of a lot more reliable as its away from the elements. With the solenoid under the bonnet, it will also be tamper proof (if you have a look on you bonnet...). That's what I run anyway, wouldn't do it any other way.

Sounds like a great setup! Any chance you could link to a step-by-step of how you installed a winch this way or post photos of the finished product?
Need to install a Warn XD9000 and was planning to leave the solenoid mounted on the winch. Also would the high under-bonnet temps of a 2012+ JK be an issue for the solenoid?

[MightyMouse]

Not a great fan of winch isolators, teh idea is good but they just seem to be a weak link in the chain. I've seen them create bad contacts and even seen the key lost ( of course there are ones that have a fixed handle.... ) which was a pita.

As for location... mounting under the bonnet solves some problems but adds quite a bit more lead carrying heavy currents to the installation. This can have a negative effect unless you have larger cables made up to minimize the problem. But in any case its still wont be as effective as large cables all round and a solenoid pack at the
winch.

Most control boxes seem to keep more water in than they keep out and getting them to fully seal on some brands is impossible and difficult on others.

I've just given up on cases etc...... have connected all the leads and then cast the entire solenoid block and cables etc in flexible silicone. Bit of a PITA if you have to change something but you can dig the solenoid pack out if required. So far its withstood lots of immersions and abuse.