Not that it really helps, but the difference is just that an OAT formula can't contain silicates or phosphates (as corrosion inhibitors.) while HOAT formulas do.
The only downside of using HOAT when OAT is spec'd, is that the silicates and phosphates can gel or just fall out of suspension and loose effectiveness. That's a risk for manufacturers considering the number of vehicles which never get a coolant change.
But for us with maintenance up-to-scratch I recon HOAT is always the go.
It's plausible FCJ could've changed the spec from HOAT to OAT (or even back again?) just based-on risk of corrosion vs gelling with lack of maintenance, but it probably doesn't mean much for us either-way.
So IMO you can safely stick to the HOAT... and only ever top-up with distilled water obviously.
If you think the coolant might've already been mixed, you'd need to do a full flush to know for-sure that it's safe regardless of the spec (although I wouldn't bother.). Since compatibility is more about the precise formulas (which we have no way of knowing.) regardless of HOAT, OAT or IAT.
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