Lift and Tyres of your JK

[AroGantz]

Originally Posted by JGB

Hi guys,

I have a new lift / front bar on order with Stu from Murchison in Brissy and am going to be getting it all put on next week (Fingers crossed, just depends when the order comes in / if they have time). But I just had a thought ..... Should I be buying new wheels / rubber before then? Or is it okay to do that after the lift has gone on?

Agree with Paul, there is some suggestions that death wobble is more prevalent with the stock tyres but I would just take it as it comes, if you get DW consider changing tyres but the more time you have to research the happier you will be when you get them.

[MDK]

Originally Posted by SeaComms

With 2in lift the already low stock caster angle will be climbing down toward the point where it will increase the chances of front end wobbles. Personally (and from past experience) I would be sticking either adjustable control arms or the AEV drop brackets. I put the drop brackets in and the infrequent wobbles I was getting ceased, but the damage was already done and not long after new tie rod, drag link and ball joints were required.

Keep the caster up around the 5° mark and that should keep your front end in tact.

Firstly I would look at what shocks you have. If longer, you may need to lower the brake line mount brackets and check the ABS cabling is long enough.

From there I would add the front adjustable disconnects to get your sway bar level and easy to drop off if crawling and check your rear sway bar links as they may need to be longer.

Check axle centre, at 2.5in on mine its border line whether I could get away with it as my axles were approx 6mm offset. I bit the bullet and stuck a front adjustable track bar and rear Teraflex axle mounted bracket.

When funds allow get bigger tyres!

Good info. Thanks. Won't be used too hard so on a budget what parts would be the go. Control arm bracket? New longer dc sways?

Anything for the rear ?

[Teo]

Originally Posted by SeaComms

With 2in lift the already low stock caster angle will be climbing down toward the point where it will increase the chances of front end wobbles. Personally (and from past experience) I would be sticking either adjustable control arms or the AEV drop brackets. I put the drop brackets in and the infrequent wobbles I was getting ceased, but the damage was already done and not long after new tie rod, drag link and ball joints were required.

Keep the caster up around the 5° mark and that should keep your front end in tact.

Firstly I would look at what shocks you have. If longer, you may need to lower the brake line mount brackets and check the ABS cabling is long enough.

From there I would add the front adjustable disconnects to get your sway bar level and easy to drop off if crawling and check your rear sway bar links as they may need to be longer.

Check axle centre, at 2.5in on mine its border line whether I could get away with it as my axles were approx 6mm offset. I bit the bullet and stuck a front adjustable track bar and rear Teraflex axle mounted bracket.

When funds allow get bigger tyres!

That's the sort of info and reassurance that I was looking for lol. After lifting my jk 2" I've noticed some bad vibrations only between 80-100kph, when I get to 100 or so it lessens. Mechanic thought replacing ball joints would fix it (cause stock ones were stuffed) but I think they just became overly stuffed from the vibrations. Getting caster correction kit put on soon, but drag link has some up and down play/clunking, track bar bushings looking bit worn... Hopefully too much damage hasn't been done

Sent from my HTC One XL using Aussie Jeep Offroad mobile app

[Banshee]

Tyres won't cause DW, but the OEM Silent Armours do get out of round easily. This causes sometimes severe vibration that won't balance out & that some mistake for DW. It can trigger it though, if you already have the other problems & just need a straw to break the camels back.

To get DW you need to have loose or damaged components that let the axle oscillate sideways. Bad tyres cannot do this by themselves.

[wheeler33]

Originally Posted by JGB

Hi guys,



I have a new lift / front bar on order with Stu from Murchison in Brissy and am going to be getting it all put on next week (Fingers crossed, just depends when the order comes in / if they have time). But I just had a thought ..... Should I be buying new wheels / rubber before then? Or is it okay to do that after the lift has gone on?

It's fine, it's just comes down to looks if you want to fill the space. It'll improve your off-road-ability too!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MDK]

[s]Anyone had the Mopar lift? At present with factory springs my drivers side front arch sits about 20mm lower than the passenger side. I've got a used set of Mopar 2" springs to put in and one of the fronts (have to confirm its a front yet) is about that length longer than the other. Curious if its meant to be like that and this is done to level it out due to weight distribution the factory springs don't do or of I've got a bad spring?[/s]


Edit - Just got off my ass and had a look and measured. Its the rears that are about 15mm different. Fronts are within a couple mm.

Anybody able to measure and tell me what inside and outside diameter I will need for a front spacer to go above the isolator to level it up?

[SeaComms]

Nope. From new they were exactly level when I bought mine.

It is common for them to sag on the drivers side down here as we have both driver and fuel tank on that side. If you are putting them in I would put the longer one in the drivers side.

Edit: in fact the flexy coils are all different lengths that I replaced them with for that exact reason.


Sent from a tiny keyboard with fat fingers, apologies for my spelling. .