Grand Willys Project

[Gojeep]

Funny how something can suddenly annoy you. The top of the lower pressing, where it runs into the cowl section, pulls in as it is not wide enough there.


I could have just had some body filler applied over it, but it would be better done right if possible.


Hard to see but I cut horizontally just below the top fold using a 1mm cutoff disc.


I was was careful to pull it outwards without levering off the cowl as would have bent it in. Only had to move it less than 3mm-1/8".


After tacking to hold its position, I did what I call tack stacking to fill the gap. I didn't jump all over the place but started at one end went right through to the other by placing a tack, and then just before it loses its orange colour, quickly tack again, half still on the last tack. This leaves enough time to stop blow through from being too hot and you get better fusion to the last tack than you would if cold. No pin holes this way. Can see it left a even HAZ, (heat effected zone), which is important for controlling distortion. No hammer work was needed afterwards.


Used a 7" flap wheel to clean off the weld and works quite well. Had not used it before and less likely to leave dips.


Think it flows better now. Both sides were done the same.

[JeepCJ]

Nice custom touch Marcus........yeah been wanting patiently for you to finish the life/wife duties and get back into the truck Hope everything worked out OK

[Gojeep]

A little bit more done. They all add up though.


The ends of the sill supports had rusted so I just folded some card over the end to get a pattern.


Here is a part of the section that is being replaced.


The citric acid cleaned it up nicely, but can't replace the lost metal.


New section made and fitted.


The other end of the support also had some rust but was also the wrong profile. The donor floor is flat longer than the original, so this needs to be changed.


New piece made.


Also had to extend the length of the sill supports to match the longer cab. As the support is curved on one side, I added the length at the widest point.


For some reason the sill support flange that fits under the sill was not spot welded to the sill like it was on the earlier cab? Not sure if a change of company policy or just a slack assembly worker? I have drilled holes ready to plug weld it together for the extra strength it gives.


The end of the sill that braces the bottom of the A pillar was also missing any welds. So I will be adding those too.



I decided to add the sill supports before the floor extension so I could get more welds done inside where it meets both pillars. I could then also re-coat the inside of the sill.

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by JeepCJ

Nice custom touch Marcus........yeah been wanting patiently for you to finish the life/wife duties and get back into the truck Hope everything worked out OK

Hopefully I can get you your 'fix' a little more regular again.

[JeepCJ]

Originally Posted by Gojeep

Hopefully I can get you your 'fix' a little more regular again.

Thanks Mate, I'm sitting here watching the walls........One week down after operation and only five more to go

Looking good and looks like the new seats getting some work too

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by JeepCJ

Thanks Mate, I'm sitting here watching the walls........One week down after operation and only five more to go

Looking good and looks like the new seats getting some work too

Yep, the cast seat is getting used a lot. Has to earn its keep like everything else if it takes up floor space.

[Gojeep]

Time to finally fill in the floor. Just cut a quick cardboard template.


Added extra for the folds and a stepped flange to go under the donor floor.


Found this LED light handy for following the line. Just sold in Bunnings as a barbeque light! They have a strong magnetic base or you can use the clamp.


I will roll in a step flange along the edge where it tucks under the donor floor. There was already the same setup on this edge as this was where the donor door sill attached. Shows just how wide the Willys cabin has become.


Using the bead roller I tipped the edge so it can be plug welded to the cowl stiffener. Used a shrinker to make the bends in the flange.


Tipping the edge of the floor over the door sill to give it extra strength. It has a slight curve all the way along so could not use a folder.


Had to straighten out the floor after tipping the edge due to the curve. I find it easier to hold a ruler along it while using the shrinker/stretcher so I know precisely where and how much to move it. The shrinker will bring it towards to the ruler and vice versa.


Used my old home made back gauge to mark where to trim off the excess.


And it didn't fit! It is out by the material thickness so wont sit down over the top of the sill. I had marked it with the panel sitting on the sill, but the pencil was on a bit of an angle and I didn't allow quite enough for that.


To move the fold I placed it on the edge of my table that I have radiused the edge of. As the radius was a bit bigger than that of the fold, I could hit down with glancing blows with a nylon headed hammer to move the fold. I use the nylon head so it does not thin and stretch the metal while doing it or leave many marks.


Now it fits perfectly. Next the panel will be coated in zinc primer where it tucks under the donor floor and also right along the underside.


Plenty of plug welds are needed. The two rows at the front connect the sill support to the sill itself. This turns the sill channel into a boxed member adding much strength to it all. The plug welds along the donor floor were done where the holes already were from drilling out the original spot welds. Fully welded the floor to the A an B pillars as well just like the factory did for extra support.


I could have only sanded the front row of plug welds as the rest will end up under the carpet, but you know what I am like.


More zinc primer down and later will fully seam seal the joint top and bottom.