XJ Mods VSB 14 - Page 13 - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand

Go Back   AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand > JEEP GARAGE > XJ / MJ Cherokee
Register Forums Trading Your Jeep New Garage Mark All Read

Post New Thread  Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #85  
Old 23-06-2016
junglejuice's Avatar
junglejuice  junglejuice is offline
MonsterMoose
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brisbane, Southside
Age: 51
Posts: 10,539
What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 369
Liked 1,110 Times in 691 Posts
Default

I did the same thing on my OBD1 engine, when I tried to drill it for the easy out it wandered off course, the result wasn't pretty, luckily that engine is gone now....
__________________
JJ

Do it once, Do it right!

2014 WK2 Overland
  #86  
Old 23-06-2016
awg  awg is offline
Full Flexer
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,133
What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 109
Liked 640 Times in 436 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbrown64 View Post
.. it was all going so well...

and then i snapped the rear stud when tightening everything up. Its 3/8 and snapped 2 threads inside the head right at the back near the firewall. I have now read thats its common. I was gutted. Took everything back off, ordered and got a new manifold gasket within 3 hours from Coventrys, got two 3/8 manifold bolts from Repco, and a right hand drill adaptor and cobalt drill bit from Masters.

I managed to get my drill in the stud and make a 3.5mm hole and then tried getting it out with a bolt extractor. 7pm and no luck so far.
I plan on drilling bigger and using a bigger extractor, and then may have to go up to 8mm and rethread. This is a major problem, and i don't want to have to remove the head again...

Cheers,
nasty...good luck, most of my experience is vehicles 40s-70s, have had to extract broken studs quite a few times, and hate easyout extractors, especially if the drill hole isnt dead centre. Heating the the drilled stud shell helps, if u havnt oxy, have used an arc welder tip right on the stud, glows red in seconds

ended up using helicoil or timesert several times
__________________
'96 4.0 Sport 370k+
'96 Limited 263k (unreg spare)
'96 Sport 335k (got smashed, farmtruck)
  #87  
Old 23-06-2016
alexbrown64's Avatar
alexbrown64  alexbrown64 is offline
AJOR Gold
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,465
What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 1,064
Liked 1,080 Times in 692 Posts
Default

Well, i played around all day. Used tungsten carbide burs, cobalt drill bits, 3/8 x 16 UNC tap, etc.. cost a fortune.. old stud all drilled out, and i ended up with a threaded hole that is too sloppy. My last resort is a Recoil 23603 3/8 x16 UNC thread repair kit. It has a short shank drill bit that i can fit in, and then rethread to correct dimensions for coil and then stud. I was toying with the idea of Devcon and all that, but it would just be a bodge job.. i am hoping for everlasting peace when this is done.....
__________________
'95 XJ I6 4.0 AW4 NP242,
  #88  
Old 23-06-2016
junglejuice's Avatar
junglejuice  junglejuice is offline
MonsterMoose
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brisbane, Southside
Age: 51
Posts: 10,539
What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 369
Liked 1,110 Times in 691 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbrown64 View Post
Well, i played around all day. Used tungsten carbide burs, cobalt drill bits, 3/8 x 16 UNC tap, etc.. cost a fortune.. old stud all drilled out, and i ended up with a threaded hole that is too sloppy. My last resort is a Recoil 23603 3/8 x16 UNC thread repair kit. It has a short shank drill bit that i can fit in, and then rethread to correct dimensions for coil and then stud. I was toying with the idea of Devcon and all that, but it would just be a bodge job.. i am hoping for everlasting peace when this is done.....
Again, sounds familiar....
__________________
JJ

Do it once, Do it right!

2014 WK2 Overland
  #89  
Old 24-06-2016
alexbrown64's Avatar
alexbrown64  alexbrown64 is offline
AJOR Gold
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,465
What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 1,064
Liked 1,080 Times in 692 Posts
Default

Well, if you went through that, then hats of too you JJ. This was one of the most awkward jobs i have done. But, i got it!!

I went to Blackwoods to get the special size thread kit for the 3/8 stud, but they didn't have it in stock.. useless... so i went back home and had another think. I have a 10mm thread repair kit, so i chopped down the drill bit to make it short enough to fit between the firewall and drilled it out to 10.5mm. It was ridiculously hard going, but managed to get a 10mm helicoil insert fitted and it all came up really well.

I would estimate it took 2 full days and about a hundred bucks in tools to do.
Anyone else contemplating this job, first i would probably take the head off next time round, but if you want to do it without removing the head, then your best friends will be:

Right angle drill adaptor and high speed drill
Extension mirror
Short shank cobalt drill bits
Tungsten carbide burs
Helicoil kit, 3/8 or 10mm.

If your situation is a broken stud with a bit hanging out, then you can try vice grips, welding a nut onto the end etc..

If your situation is like mine, a stud broken off inside the head, some people suggest using a mig to build a nipple on the broken stud and then weld a nut onto that.

With the studs being made of hardened steel, its almost impossible for an easy out to get a bite on, so if your planning on drilling it out, you will need super hard drill bits, and your original thread will probably get damaged and tapping won't work. So the option would be to use a helicoil when you finally remove all the old stud.

Pic below is job finished.



Cheers,
__________________
'95 XJ I6 4.0 AW4 NP242,
Likes: (2)

Last edited by alexbrown64; 22-03-2018 at 08:11 PM.
  #90  
Old 24-06-2016
oldon  oldon is offline
CrawlerStar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 468
What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 407
Liked 228 Times in 157 Posts
Default

Are you replacing all the bolts/ studs Alex? I think it's a good idea while you have it apart, they live in a tough environment. I always replaced them on truck engines if exhaust manifolds were off & put neverseize on all threads. Seemed to prevent them breaking at inconvenient times. When you hit water in a V8 Mack the exhaust manifolds would warp so much you'd think they broke off for a couple of seconds. Big thermal shock on studs/ bolts, no real surprise they would break one occasionally. The jeep engine wouldn't be putting out as much exhaust heat but it does have a rigid exhaust system swinging off it applying some leverage on the bolts/studs. That's why I put a piece of flex pipe in my jeep exhaust. All your work makes for a good read mate & I like those green jeeps.
Likes: (1)
  #91  
Old 24-06-2016
alexbrown64's Avatar
alexbrown64  alexbrown64 is offline
AJOR Gold
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,465
What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 1,064
Liked 1,080 Times in 692 Posts
Default

Hey Oldon, i am replacing both the studs, but not the bolts. Perhaps i should but i have not heard reports of the bolts breaking, just mainly the rear stud...
I have cleaned all threads and will anti seize, and only torque up to 24 ft/lbs (i just re-checked fsm). As you know, you cant really torque this job, as you can barely get to the fittings, but 24 ft/lbs is not much, and i was using the old spanner on the end of a spanner to really tighten them up, which was way to much.
The flex pipe sounds like a good idea. Have you got a pick of that. I will be going from 2.5" down to 2.25 inch.

Cheers,
__________________
'95 XJ I6 4.0 AW4 NP242,
Post New Thread  Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On





All times are GMT +10. The time now is 03:12 PM.


Advertisements




AJOR does not vouch for or warrant the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any message, and are not responsible for the contents of any message. The messages express the views of the author of the message, not necessarily the views of AJOR or any entity associated with AJOR, nor should any advice be substituted as technical advice replacing that of a mechanic. You agree, through your use of this service, that you will not use AJOR to post any material which is knowingly false and/or defamatory, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, religious, political or otherwise violative of any law. You agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyright is owned by you or by AJOR. The owner, administrators and moderators of AJOR reserve the right to delete any message or members for any or no reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold harmless AJOR, the administrators, moderators, and their agents with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). The use of profile signatures to intentionally mislead or misdirect any member on this forum is not acceptable and may result in your account being suspended. Any trip that is organised through the AJOR forum is participated at your own risk. If you or your vehicle is damaged it is your responsibility, not that of the person that posted the thread, message or topic initiating the trip, nor the organisers of AJOR or moderators of any specific forum. This forum and associated website is the property of AJOR. No user data is harvested and no information supplied in your registration will be sold for profit.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

AJOR © 2002 - 2024 AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM. All corporate trademarked names and logos are property of their respective owners. Ausjeepoffroad is in no way associated with DaimlerChrysler Corporation or Fiat Jeep.
www.ausjeep.com www.ausjeep.com.au www.midlifemate.com ausjeepforum.com www.r9kustoms.com
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=