XJ Mods VSB 14 - Page 12 - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand

rustynuts · #78 13-06-2016

As per "Go Jeep" it sits under the radiator.

alexbrown64 · #79 13-06-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by werd

So the oil cooler is getting its cool air through the aircon and the radiator?

Its a bit hard to see the exact location in my pics as i have the bullbar on, but i have borrowed this pic from Marcus's site http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAutoCooler.htm to show exactly how he did it, and what i also did, based on his idea. Pic below is of holes in bull bar. Derale sits just behind those...

Thats why i have drilled a bunch of 40mm holes in my bullbar and the plate behind it to get more airflow.

Cheers,

alexbrown64 · #80 13-06-2016

My factory headers were cracked and would not pass an inspection. In preparation for the new headers, i removed the factory down pipe. The factory down pipe has a restrictive dent in it that many think has happened while off roading. In fact, it was put there by the factory to help clear the front drive shaft. Its a terrible design that restricts a narrow pipe even further. My wildcat headers come with a dual down pipe that has no restrictions and less bends. While the headers are getting ceramic coated, i painted the down pipes with 1000C ceramic high temp paint inside and out. If you cure it correctly, it should last.

Cheers,

alexbrown64 · #81 15-06-2016

At one stage my brakes were hopeless and i was not going to go ahead with this project until i sorted them. I ordered the EBC Yellow Stuff pads, front caliper rebuild kits and rear cylinders all at the same time. I put the pads on and the difference was a miracle, so i never bothered with all the other stuff. That was up until today. I got down and dirty and covered in brake fluid. Tackled the rear cylinders first. They were pretty old and i could of swore i saw one weeping a while back. These were quite easy, but i had preplanned by getting a handy 3/8 flare nut spanner which really helped.

The fronts took a bit longer as the pods in the calipers were a stuck in. Everything was really dirty and worn. Cleaned everything up, got the pods out and replaced them together with all new seals. My old dust seals were missing, so hopefully this setup will give all the brakes a new lease of life... I used about a liter of brake fluid bleeding everything through. Pedal feels good but i may give them another go after a few drives.

Cheers,

alexbrown64 · #82 20-06-2016

Cleaned everything up and re-installed the cylinder head with new bolts. Torqued everything 3 times and in the pattern that the fsm requires.
As my rocker cover is 21 years old and is the alloy type, it comes with a permanent gasket that the fsm says can be repaired with rtv within reason, or if its beyond repair.. replace rocker cover. That's not going to happen and there is an alternative. My gasket was shot, but Felpro provides a gasket as a replacement for this model.. Its not cheap, at twice the price of the head gasket, but its great quality. Fel-Pro VS 50522 T.

Amazon

I also had a chance to pick up the Wildcat headers that had been ceramic coated.
Below is a pic of the old OEM headers, which are cracked, vs the new tri y design Wildcat headers with ceramic coat to reduce underhood temps, improve performance and protect the headers from rust. Going to fit these tomorrow. Have everything ready including 14mm ratchet spanner.

Cheers,

junglejuice · #83 20-06-2016

The 14mm ratchet spanner makes things easier, I also have ceramic coated extractors, never noticed any difference temp wise compared to the stock manifold...

alexbrown64 · #84 23-06-2016

I was a bit apprehensive about re-fitting the inlet and exhaust manifolds. I knew it was going to be a hard time, and the Jeep didn't let me down.

I was well prepared with the 14mm ratchet spanner, copper rtv, removed the front drive shaft to give me more room.. Below is a pic of the progress... it was all going so well...

and then i snapped the rear stud when tightening everything up. Its 3/8 and snapped 2 threads inside the head right at the back near the firewall. I have now read thats its common. I was gutted. Took everything back off, ordered and got a new manifold gasket within 3 hours from Coventrys, got two 3/8 manifold bolts from Repco, and a right hand drill adaptor and cobalt drill bit from Masters.

I managed to get my drill in the stud and make a 3.5mm hole and then tried getting it out with a bolt extractor. 7pm and no luck so far.
I plan on drilling bigger and using a bigger extractor, and then may have to go up to 8mm and rethread. This is a major problem, and i don't want to have to remove the head again...

Cheers,