Need new radiator for TJ - Aluminium?

[ajftj]

Here we go, just coming up for two months in service and the radiator springs a leak between one of the cores and the bottom tank. So begins an attempt at warranty return through an ebay supplier. Let's see how this pans out.

[mick666]

Originally Posted by ajftj

Here we go, just coming up for two months in service and the radiator springs a leak between one of the cores and the bottom tank. So begins an attempt at warranty return through an ebay supplier. Let's see how this pans out.

Hi. I went thru 3 of these Ebay/Worley etc units on my TJ about a year and 1/2 ago. All from the same supplier at Hoppers Crossing. My advice: take it back, they will give you a refund or offer you another one. TAKE THE REFUND and get a copper one or a plastic/ally unit. ALL 3 of mine sprang leaks after 1 - 2 months. Google electrolysis in aluminium radiators. After the first one I went thru all kinds of countermeasures including anodes and the 3rd one I even mounted on rubber mounts. ALL 3 SHAT themselves within 2 months.....Leaks between core and tanks. Cost me a lot in coolant and time!

[ajftj]

Hmm interesting, it's either crap build quality or some electro-chemical thing. I will definitely take your words of warning on board. I have yet to get to the stage where I am being offered either a refund or replacement.

Unfortunately copper rad's out of budget, which is where this all started for me. The aftermarket ally plastic one that was in the vehicle was leaking when I got it so I was put off those too.

A couple of questions, maybe you can help..

1. If you went back to ally-plastic, which brand did you go for?

2. Did you get as far as measuring the voltages to investigate the electrolysis. I get these readings and have no bench mark.

Battery -ve to Radiator body at mounts 0.001V DC engine off or running, with 0.003V AC ripple engine running.
Battery -ve to engine at thermostat housing 0.001VDC off and 0.004V AC running.
The meter's an Automotive Fluke and it does achieve 0V when the leads are shorted or connected to the block ground cable. No additional loads on at the time, just engine. It actually floats at about 36mV DC when grounded at the battery and not connected at the other lead.

I have not yet tried dipping the probe in the coolant as it was at operating temperature tonight, but will check these tomorrow.

Jeez replacing a radiator shouldn't be this hard!

[nitrobrent]

Originally Posted by ajftj

Hmm interesting, it's either crap build quality or some electro-chemical thing. I will definitely take your words of warning on board. I have yet to get to the stage where I am being offered either a refund or replacement.

Unfortunately copper rad's out of budget, which is where this all started for me. The aftermarket ally plastic one that was in the vehicle was leaking when I got it so I was put off those too.

A couple of questions, maybe you can help..

1. If you went back to ally-plastic, which brand did you go for?

2. Did you get as far as measuring the voltages to investigate the electrolysis. I get these readings and have no bench mark.

Battery -ve to Radiator body at mounts 0.001V DC engine off or running, with 0.003V AC ripple engine running.
Battery -ve to engine at thermostat housing 0.001VDC off and 0.004V AC running.
The meter's an Automotive Fluke and it does achieve 0V when the leads are shorted or connected to the block ground cable. No additional loads on at the time, just engine. It actually floats at about 36mV DC when grounded at the battery and not connected at the other lead.

I have not yet tried dipping the probe in the coolant as it was at operating temperature tonight, but will check these tomorrow.

Jeez replacing a radiator shouldn't be this hard!

It wont be hard if you get a copper radiator.
The last thing you want is it blowing when your out somewhere.
Should be able to get one for $450.
Cheap insurance against being stuck somewhere or losing a days work because the ali radiator shit itself again.

[ajftj]

for $450 it would have been done and dusted, PWR quoted me just under a grand three months ago. Do you have any sources so I don't have to sell a kidney?

[bonza]

as per my earlier post

I picked up radiator with an aluminium alloy core complete with plastic header tanks (same design as OEM) from an ebay store for as cheap as chips about 8 years ago. had no problems with it and about 150k kilometers later

also picked up a same style rad for a Hilux a year ago and has no problems. cost less than $150

got it from auspartsoverstock on ebay

an entirely aluminium alloy radiator is a risk due to difficulty of manufacture, the core tubes have to be individually welded into the header tanks and that is a highly skilled job, so unless you pay big bucks you'll get crap

copper and brass radiators are easier to produce as during manufacture the solder "sweats" into place with the headers and core

alum core and plastic tanks easier still to make as they are sealed by o-ring style seals and these type of radiators allow a little bit of flex

[nitrobrent]

Originally Posted by ajftj

for $450 it would have been done and dusted, PWR quoted me just under a grand three months ago. Do you have any sources so I don't have to sell a kidney?

I got it off a local radiator place.
He ordered it from someone in Sydney.
Unfortunately he has closed , I took my sons copper one to him to fix , but has closed down.
The guy next door said cheap ebay radiators literally killed him.
Most aren't worth fixing and no one wants to pay double the price for a decent one..
Went to another place , it had closed too.
Found one half an hour away.
Left it with him.
He tested it , rang me and said its fine , come and pick it up.
Put it back in and still leaks