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  #22  
Old 22-05-2022
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Originally Posted by Mousie View Post
Yes, the intercooler is slightly smaller now and a tad better performance I was told by Stu. Unfortunately the first version was a tad to big hence some minor negative effects. Looked long and hard to buy the IC and install myself but the advice from many in US on the Ram 1500 forums was it was not worth it as factory IC was pretty good anyway from their dyno tests. Yes cooler intake temps result but after spending last couple of months in very high 30’s towing I was impressed with the way the Jeep handles the heat with temps generally constant. That is impressive by the way.

My thoughts too...my take has always been you could in fact overdo the IC capacity. The factory set up turbo can only supply a pre set compressed air volume at full noise. I may be totally wrong but I have likened it to pushing the sane volume of water through a large diameter hose and smaller diameter hose.
The volume will ultimately be the same coming out but at differing pressure. There is a set time for the air to move in to the cylinder as valves open, so air speed would be critical as well as volume. But if the air speed is slower then you may not get the same volume in in the same given time frame.

I am sure, and would hope, the boffins did their homework when designing the turbo / intercooler package to perform at it's very best all the time with regard to boost and cooling capacity.

Hence my comment that if mucking around with ECU's and tuning them to give more HP and torque, then from where I sit the turbo would need to be increasing boost...ie air volume, to give that increase in HP and Torque.

The resultant increase in air flow may over tax the standard IC and not give the same amount of volume and cooling where a slightly larger volume IC potentially could.
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  #23  
Old 22-05-2022
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Originally Posted by bjm View Post
I know an independant Jeep trained mechanic with his own work shop who is seeing more and more coked up egr and map sensors.He now says clean both at every oil change even if using a Provent etc.on another subject ,he also said ,the 8 speed ZF auto appears to be handling towing caravans with no problems.Even atf at 90000 ks comes out clean !

I am sure many Jeep owners don't ever get the Map sensor or EGR tube cleaned!
My opinion is that not doing so will lead to possible fueling issues as the MAP, Manifold Absolute Pressure, sensor won't read correctly when covered in crud, possibly leading to the ECU getting incorrect information and consequently under fueling or over fueling.
Then that will ricochet down the line to the DPF potentially causing clogging issues as the exhaust will be affected either running too hot or too cool.
Plus the sooty crud accumulating on the EGR pipe could start to peel away and be sucked in to the cylinders causing damages. Let alone valves being coated in the stuff.

I think every oil change might apply if the owner drags change intervals out as far as possible. The photo's in my previous post are after 13,000 kms since the previous clean. Though I change the engine oil & filter every 90 days regardless of kms so the oil is always in pretty good shape therefore the amount of blow by is kept to a minimum.
I am going to stretch my EGR and MAP clean out to 20,000 kms, (that would be where your mechanic would be heading I'd say) for me about every 4th oil change

A catch can is a definite assistance to keeping the whole intake system a bit cleaner...no brainer really.
Manufacturers won't include a catch can system usually because it is one more thing that can go wrong if an owner is oblivious to it and never empties it, until the engine eventually begins to choke as oil gets sucked from an overfull catch can in to the inlet....that's besides the few bob extra to fit them that consumers won't happily pay.

The trade off is oily blow by gunk being sucked in to the inlet manifold mixing with hot gases from the EGR and coating everything in tar...great idea eh!

The only way to keep a modern diesel running as reliably as is possible is to ensure regular oil changes...in the good old days diesels required oil and filter changes at least every 5,000 kms. Yet these days with engines choked up with every conceivable bolt on to make them "cleaner", albeit far less efficient, car manufacturers tell the buyers to only service these engine at half what it used to be or even quarter!

Stop start motoring kills the engines, constant cold starts are the enemy as the oil drains off journals and cylinder walls leaving them exposed to much faster wear. I read somewhere that 72 hours between starts is the line apparently after which wear can increase dramatically due to oil drain off.
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  #24  
Old 22-05-2022
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While oil and filters get changed at 10K I have a regime of doing sensors at 20K, earlier is a waste of resources, can gets dumped every service but has room for longer, my service schedule suits my vehicles driving situation.......... Many fire up and drive or stop and key off another sure engine killer but they don't care as they usually don't keep the vehicle long enough anyway.........
Many don't even think about checking brake rotors and pads, they are something that General Public get ripped off for on a regular basis and if you haven't fitted a bug screen behind the grill you will slowly be choking the various coolers stacked up to each other behind the grill, cleaning by dismantling is the only true way to clear it out, air or water will only lodge the grass seeds and bugs firmer between the units.. Grass underneath especially with bash plates has caused more fires than gets let on also ...

This vehicle maintenance thing is full on with lots to do even if you leave it to other spanner men, there's lots for the owner to check.

(Raining again/still so I'm bored)
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  #25  
Old 22-05-2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeper6 View Post
My thoughts too...my take has always been you could in fact overdo the IC capacity. The factory set up turbo can only supply a pre set compressed air volume at full noise. I may be totally wrong but I have likened it to pushing the sane volume of water through a large diameter hose and smaller diameter hose.
The volume will ultimately be the same coming out but at differing pressure. There is a set time for the air to move in to the cylinder as valves open, so air speed would be critical as well as volume. But if the air speed is slower then you may not get the same volume in in the same given time frame.

I am sure, and would hope, the boffins did their homework when designing the turbo / intercooler package to perform at it's very best all the time with regard to boost and cooling capacity.

Hence my comment that if mucking around with ECU's and tuning them to give more HP and torque, then from where I sit the turbo would need to be increasing boost...ie air volume, to give that increase in HP and Torque.

The resultant increase in air flow may over tax the standard IC and not give the same amount of volume and cooling where a slightly larger volume IC potentially could.
I would think would only be true if the turbo was maxed out. From what I have seen there is still plenty in these turbos. Yes boost would need to increase possibly to fill the extra capacity in the same given time, but the ECU will see the set boost pressure is not being reached and compensate by opening the vanes earlier or by more for example.

That intercooler really did only fit by millimeters though and was a bit of a task to fit.
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  #26  
Old 24-05-2022
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Anyone gone with one of these here,
https://bankspower.com/products/race...3-0l-ecodiesel
It removes the swirl and EGR. No BS just good engineering.
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  #27  
Old 24-05-2022
GCDingo  GCDingo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67HR View Post
Anyone gone with one of these here,
https://bankspower.com/products/race...3-0l-ecodiesel
It removes the swirl and EGR. No BS just good engineering.
No but would like to. US$1000 including throttle delete kit though, plus shipping and taxes, then dicking around fitting, which would lead to replacing the stupid turbo, oil and coolant hoses while at it and then a tune makes it a very expensive exercise. Probably not now that I have just thought of all that.

I really don't think it would benefit that much unless you after every kW and Nm. Just doing the usual DPF and EGR delete with a tune would suffice for most I reckon.

I actually finally found the MAP sensor on weekend and pulled it out after 80k+ km and it was caked. Gave it a clean and I reckon the throttle response improved quite noticeably. Probably should do the MAF sensor now. Haha man I am lazy sometimes.
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Last edited by GCDingo; 24-05-2022 at 03:10 PM.
  #28  
Old 24-05-2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67HR View Post
Anyone gone with one of these here,
https://bankspower.com/products/race...3-0l-ecodiesel
It removes the swirl and EGR. No BS just good engineering.

looks the goods for sure...would like to have one but likely very little chance of getting it shipped from Banks in the US to here...Banks do engineer some good stuff.
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