2.7 wg - hard to start and cut out

[fester]

Originally Posted by almc3

Is there any way of clearing logged faults without reader - on certain vehicles removal of one of the circuit breakers for 60 seconds clears all faults -any such luck with 2003 jeeps.

In short no the ECU never clears. There are some readers that work but I am yet to hear of a cheap one that works. Find a friendly local mechanic with a decent Bosch tool or a Launch Diagun tool and they should be able to do it otherwise it's a dealers DRBIII.

I'm pretty sure I have a fuel pump kit lying around somewhere if you want to do a cheap semi rebuild on yours.

[drover]

Agree with all the above, a very, very small amount of air in line could be the cause of hard start but not of the cut out, once it stops from air in fuel line it will not start until you prime it up again.
I would go the pressure sensor then the pump/injectors after a leak back test, doing anything to them before the test is just poking around in the dark.
A Bosch Diesel Service Centre is your best bet, they know the MB engine and stock the parts.
Mine has been running around for a few years with a couple of codes, I actually thiink one is a crank sensor ?? not sure now but if the code is there and all is running good then don't worry about them.
If the filter is sucking air just throw it and get another, it happens sometimes. Don't fiddle with the fuel lines unless you absolutely have to, they will be brittle and picking up half a dozen fuel O rings from an MB dealer is a must. Numbers on Everything 2.7.
When you go to an MB dealer you must have the MB part number, try using a Jeep number you will get laughed at. Don't waste your time at a Jeep dealer.

[almc3]

Thanks for your advice
I purchased a cheap injector by leak off kit from e bay for around $40.00 and
tested the 2003 Larado's injectors. Number 3 injector filled the 100ml test bottle in 30 second , while the other injectors had discharged around 10 mls in the same time - changed out injector ,also changed out the cam shaft positioner sensor -all good.

The 2004 Limited proved to be more difficult- hard to start , and cut out randomly in heavy traffic and always on full throttle .It then blew #4 injector
out of head while out on the road (attached by injector line) - tow truck home ! Ended up causing little
damage - cut the wiper cowling out with a jigsaw and had retaining bolt hole helicoiled -injector was cleaned , new nozzle ,test OK so used again - engine ran OK but hard to start . Tested injectors using leak off test bottles - #3 injector required replacement .Ordered new fuel lines from UK .Also bought cheap hand vaccum pump from ebay - $30.00 delivered- essential part of 2.7
owner toolkit - works great.
I cleaned MAF sensor ,air temp and other sensors with MAF sensor cleaner - do not use brake clean !! and replaced cam shaft positioner sensor as code was showing - engine ran better but still hard to start - remove high pressure
pump and had reconditioned for around $700 - shaft needed replacing due to wear on seal area. Refitted hi pressure pump , at same time fitted new fuel lines ,fuel filter and replaced the rubber lines to the fuel filter.
Engine starts and runs well -low end and mid range power has greatly improved and will run up any hill at redline with no hesitation.
Like to give Guy Hall from Diesel Aust Pty Ltd at Slacks Creek a big rap for his
help in sorting out the injectors and pump - he's good on the Merc OM612 engines -told me to get rid of the Jeep filter and use the ML270 fuel filter as the Jeep filter causes aeration.
I also noticed that when I bled the fuel system , the ball valve on the brand new plastic fuel line was sucking air-only stopped making a sucking noise when the stopper was inserted. My advise to other 2.7 owners with starting problems
1- check engine codes - 0340 - change cam positioner sensor -$100.00 ebay
2-check injector -leak off - replace injectors as needed -cut a big hole in wiper
cowling for #4 and #5 -its not structural - silastic it up - the Jeeps only worth 5-10 grand -why waste $3000 on labour at a dealer to remove engine
3-replace all O ring - replace plastic lines if needed but you may have to remove the hi pressure pump to successfully do this.
4 -if you still got a problem starting and the engine is around 200,000 klm you will be looking at a high pressure pump reseal/recondition/replacement -new pump quoted around $1200 . $750 for a reman . Once you get your head around the MB fuel delivery system ,it is a very simple basic system containing two plastic lines and a few o rings -problems is on old lines everything is brittle and breaks when you touch it - on the new lines I fitted I added a touch of flexible gasket maker above the O ring as hopefully the fuel filter will not need changing for at least a year -a new fuel line between the filter and low press pump will be replaced when the filter is changed as this line only cost $50.00 in is one of the prime suspects for air leakage -costs more in labour at a repair shop to diagnose an air leak than is does to buy new lines photo of stuffed injector- Cheers Al

[drover]

Good write up almc3, the old CRD hands will probably be nodding heads in agreement and glad you've got it sorted, well done.

My OE fuel filter gets changed a lot less than normal as I fitted an extra CAV glass bowl job in line, filters cheaper and easier to remove as well as the return valve on the OE filter has been blocked off for years.
My leak back test shows about 3mm in the bottles with each injector within .5ml of each other, not bad after 260,000kms, whether adding 2stroke has helped I couldn't say but starts and runs just as good now as it did when near new.

[fester]

The only positive thing I can add to that is:


On a serious note can you clarify what you did for reading codes as this is one of the biggest issues for the 2.7 as owners are in a bit of no mans land for cost effective options that work properly.

[almc3]

Hi Fester ,
I ordered a OBD scanner from UK - seller claimed it worked on Jeep and European diesels -but when I plugged into OBD port on both Jeeps it failed to
communicate - as you mentioned in previous post -you have to spend big$$ to purchase scanner capable of reading OBD111
I took the 2004 Limited down to Hammonds Tyre and Mechanical at Capalaba
and had all codes cleared on their handheld Bosch diagnostic computer . They
also had the computer hooked up in real time when engine cut out in heavy traffic .It showed 0340- cam sensor positioner - this was changed out but did not solve the problem - cutting out was caused by excessive leakage on #3 injector , hard starting was caused by worn hi pressure pump ,crook injector and possible aeration. Also cost me a starter motor ,but at 210,000klms was probably due.
Both Jeeps are running well ,power ,especially mid range is fantastic. Economy
is brilliant - cruising down the M1 to gold coast at 110kph overhead display was showing 7.2lts per 100 -averaged 8.8 over 200klm trip after changing out pump and 2 injectors. Around town average is 9.2
Low fuel pressure 1040 was always present after engine cutting out under full power on both Jeeps .It appears to me the cam sensors caused engine to cut out randomly at low revs around town and leaking injector caused hi load cut out everytime full demand was required .
Thanks for your input

[fester]

That's cool. Was hoping you had found something in the readers we have missed over the years.