TJ: Rockets Build

[Rocket55]

I'm all pretty new to this, so I'll have to ask, what's a "JJ"?

I'm running the superflex couplers on the chassis end of the front long arm and the standard rubber bushes everywhere else. Shouldn't really get any binding at the diff end if the arm can freely rotate at the chassis end.

On the back I'm running superflex bushes top and bottom on the chassis end and rubbers to and bottom on the diff end, seems to work ok.

Think I need and inch or so longer shocks each end though.

[Redemptioner]

yeah running 12" fronts and 11" rears on eyelets all round so she flexes well and the frame end maxes out the deflection inside the mount pretty quickly which then pushes all that force down onto the rubber bushes on the diff which don't have much give really. Suffice to say it just tears a standard mount strait off the diff

JJ's are jonny joints, same as the superflex more or less but just easier to type than superflex or whatever other brand name that is out there

[Faithy]

Johnny Joint. It's the cartridge joint Currie make. They don't require regular tightening like the RE joints. RE joints are good.. just gotta lube them and adjust them every 3-6 months.

I take it your long arm is a radius arm front? Cartridge joints will actually slightly increase bind but due to their radius arm setup having a bush where the upper arm connects to the lower portion of the radius arm, there's enough deflection to allow it to flex ok - twice what a patrol or 80 will. That can encourage unloading on steep climbs and funny behaviour when hitting the brakes if you have much lift. Some people love them though

Sent from my SM-G920I using Aussie Jeep Offroad mobile app

[Rocket55]

Ah, Johnny Joint, have heard this name while reading stuff. My front lower arm goes from the chassis to the bottom of the diff. The upper arm goes from the top of the diff back to about the middle of the lower arm. Creates a "Y" shape. The front end only joins the chassis at one point on each side. The rear has both upper and lower arms that join the chassis.

The two RE joints on the front that joint the chassis were showing signs of wear, yet all the rubber was fine, so I suspect it's not binding up. That means longer shocks required although it does flex so much better than my Hilux and then Patrol it's not funny, so I'm still kinda beside myself with what it can do.

[Faithy]

Well if you like them, that's all that matters! Those long arms are technically called a radius arm - the diff rotates in a radius around the chassis mount. It can have some quirks but it's easy to package, rides like a long arm kit on road and flexes alright.

If you keep going through the RE cartridge joints, keep an eye out for Metalcloak's duroflex bushings to see if they bring out an RE replacement. They do for JJ's and I think Teraflex.

[Redemptioner]

Originally Posted by Faithy

Well if you like them, that's all that matters! Those long arms are technically called a radius arm - the diff rotates in a radius around the chassis mount. It can have some quirks but it's easy to package, rides like a long arm kit on road and flexes alright.

Yeah, the downside you will notice is the fact it likes to turn in faster and faster as you accelerate in/out of a corner and you will feel the lag between your inputs and the body moving in concert with the undercarriage. On the other hand it does mean the cab sit much more level when using the full suspension travel. Admittedly you are asking an awful lot of the panhard, with radius arms, in comparison to the force on the main arms considering the difference in size.

If you keep going through the RE cartridge joints, keep an eye out for Metalcloak's duroflex bushings to see if they bring out an RE replacement. They do for JJ's and I think Teraflex.

Yeah the RE joints never seem to stand up, the RC ones had a bad name years ago but since they updated them the reports are good and I have had nothing but a good experience with the RC ones. My concern is the additional lag that will potentially be created between the undercarriage and body which could further exaggerate the oversteer.

[Rocket55]

Thanks for the info and advice guys, you're obviously well versed in these things.

This is the kit it had in it when I got it, and pretty sure this is the kit that will be staying in it. If the RE joints prove to provide constant headaches the I'll look at swapping them for something different. With the copious amounts of power these things don't have, I don't think increased oversteer is going to be a big issue. Though as time goes on and I start to drive it harder maybe it'll present itself.