WJ IRO 4" LA to run 33"

[v8_jofes]

OK, so it's come time for a suspension upgrade for the jeep after getting sick of grinding over rocks etc on my transfer case cover.
I'm thinking of going down the IRO 4" LA path, with all the options (bilstein 5125's, quick diso's, adj. track bar, adj front arms, and the high clearance arms option)
Also want the rear critical path long arm upgrade, with the adj. A arm.

I would like to run BFGoodrich KM2's 305/65R17 on these 17x9" wheels (http://www.quadratec.com/products/92605_712_07.htm or any other cheaper black 17x9" wheels I can find) which work out to be about 32.6"

I'd love to get those tires in there, but I'm unsure if they will foul on the arms or shocks (body parts, wheel arches etc can be cut). I'm hoping the 4.75" backspacing of new wheels, in comparison to 6" backspacing of stock wheels will compensate enough.

Now, 4" lift seems to be a ballpark limit for drive shafts, will I also need to upgrade to a double cardan front drive shaft and do a slip yoke eliminator on the rear?

So, what do you guys think? Is the kit straight bolt on for RHD (maybe I should be asking IRO but I wanted to start this thread anyway ) Am I being a little crazy with the tires? Thoughts? Suggestions?

Cheers!

[ian]

Originally Posted by bigtj

I had 33's on IRO 4" and they fouled everywhere(even after chopping hell out of guards, bumpers, etc). Even pushing the front diff forward 2" didn't help. The front shaft will last about 10k's before it destroys itself, Double carden is a must. And you'll need to do ratios.

watch out for pot holes

[turbomart]

You will definately need front shaft , stock CV ones are weak as piss.
Id go adjustable shocks like the mx6's rather than bilstiens.
Dont need to touch rear shaft or do slip yolk eliminator.
Dont go 17"s, they cost haeps more than 16"s & less choice, 33"s fit with carefull control arm adjustment & minor trimming, 305 might be getting a bit wide though , ive got 285/75r16 on 4.5"BS ,they rub control arms a little on full lock only.Need flexy flares to cover up.
If youve got V8 you dont need to re-gear unless you tow heavy or are fussy,its definately livable.

At what point do you need ratio changes? and to what ratio if you have 32" tyres? Is there a formulae?
Thanks

[turbomart]

If you want to keep ratio same as for stock tyres just work out the difference in rolling diameter as percentage & then apply it to diff ratio.
Wheather you need ratio change or not is a personal decision, it depends on the motors torque ,if you tow , how much accel you want , how slow you want it to crawl (downhill in particular).

[v8_jofes]

Getting ready to spend some hard earned
Sent an email off asking a few quick questions such as, can the RHD adj track bar be substituted into the front LA kit, can the rear adj A-Arm be substituted into the rear kit, what be more appropriate, 1" or 2.5" pitman arm drop, do they do any discount for a large order, and what shipping and handling fees can I expect.
Anxiously awaiting their reply, will be clicking "add to basket" buttons very soon

One last quick question, out of their options available on the site, what are the more suitable shock absorbers? Hyrdo, Nitro, Doetsch Tech, or Bilsteins? I do a bit of highway driving, but still get offroad as much as I can

Thanks

[burnz]

DT's will give you the most suspension travel and the Bilsteins will give the best on road ride.