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  #372  
Old 04-04-2016
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I only mentioned it because you said a couple of posts back that you expected a total of 50-60mm, which is more than 2". You can probably get away with it but don't expect standard alignment specs to work when you have the aligment done. What the shops usually do is get it as close as they can and leave it at that. The problem is the top control arms will be too short when you lift the vehicle. Thus stock arms will result in very steep ball joint angles and increase the risk of failure (they (the balljoints) cannot be changed if they fail, you have to replace the whole arm). You also have the potential of coil strike, where the control arm hits a spring coil at full droop.
Be aware that lifts over 50mm are illegal these days under the national code, and that is why ARB, TJM, etc all market their lifts as 40mm to stay away from claims of illegality of the products.
Totally up to you, plenty of KJs running around with lifts and stock Upper Control Arms. How long they last I don't know.
I should say that I run JBA Upper Control Arms and have never had a problem with holding alignment specs , coil strike, handling, and they are certainly strong enough given the punishment I have put them through over thousands of kms of corrugations. And of course the JBA Upper Control Arms have replaceable ball joints if that is ever needed.

I am endorsing any course of action for you, just presenting my experience in this area.
  #373  
Old 04-04-2016
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I have the upper control arms purchased and fitted by Murchinson Team. Have no issues with them better safe then sorry.
  #374  
Old 04-04-2016
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According to Murchinson I need at least 2" with the JBA arms. Might have to buy the JBA after all, or just use 6mm clevis lift, resulting in 40mm total lift.
  #375  
Old 11-04-2016
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Had a wheel alignment done and all within spec using new aftermarket control arms. Bridgestone spent a while on it to get it within specs.

The TJM suspension settled to 735mm (4.5cm lift) in the front and rear is at 750mm (5.5cm lift).
I did try a clevis spacer but removed it just in case it caused issues. I also didn't notice any CV issues.

The drive is definitely firmer but the loose rear end is gone. Braking is greatly improved an no more nose dive. Yet to test on rough terrain. Probably the best $750 I have spent.

I highly recommend the TJM 1.5" lift.

It's been one hell of a learning curve doing this myself, but I learned a lot.
The spring compressor I had at home could hardly handle these huge springs, so had Pedders do it for me. Brakes have been bled and work fantastic.


Ps. I will most likely get the JBA arms in the future when the Aussie dollar is stronger. Plus I didn't want to see a new aftermarket control arm go to waste.

Kj75

Last edited by KJ75; 04-05-2016 at 01:20 PM.
  #376  
Old 04-05-2016
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After I lifted my 2006 Jeep Cherokee KJ Diesel (4.5cm in front 5.5cm at rear).
I started getting some vibration under heavy acceleration at around 80km/h.
Vibration is only on heavy acceleration and not on deceleration. Soon as I let off the acceleration the vibration goes away. If I accelerate gently the vibration doesn't occur.

I have already ordered the rear Ujoints (Moog greasable), but a few weeks away.

Checked front CV by driving in circles and listening to a clicking sound, but I didn't hear anything.

I heard some have had to drop the transfere case a bit to fix the angle of the driveshaft after a lift.
I took the Jeep to a driveline specialist, and they advised me I should give the springs to settle for a few month (suspension done 3 weeks ago).
They said they could try and put in longer shaft, but wasn't guaranteed to fix the issue and would cost around $400.

I also recently serviced (Auto Tranny fluid change and filters) the Auto tranny, and used 2 x Dr SHudder Fix, as well as the Transgo kit.
I don't think it's the tranny shuddering as the issue was not there before the lift.

Anyone else had driveline vibration after a minor lift (heavy duty spring) ?
Is there any diagnostic I can do myself at home to try and find the cause ?
Could it be worn rear lower control arm bushing and under heavy acceleration it allows too much movement ?


ps.
My money is on the Ujoint, as I am experiencing the exact same issue as below (it's on a TJ though)
http://forums.off-road.com/jeep-shor...eleration.html

KJ75

Last edited by KJ75; 04-05-2016 at 02:16 PM.
  #377  
Old 22-08-2016
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Thursday I installed my new suspension King Springs and Oztech shocks. Not the normal combo but at the price I paid cant complain. Height has gone from 444mm in the front to 520mm and 457 in the rear to 530. After alignment the front has dropped to 510mm gunna do some clevis lift one it all settles. As for the ride its good stable handles the road well and all those spots where it used to bottom out , no more just glides over. before liftafter lift.

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  #378  
Old 22-08-2016
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You can use metal prado front trim packers with a slot cut in them for your clevis lift


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