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  #22  
Old 14-12-2018
Vikings37  Vikings37 is offline
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NT, to your original query, I had a Korr 12"dual row light bar sat on a number plate bracket via a piece of angle aluminium to provide enough depth for the rear of light bar to clear the bumper. The bracket came from Autopro (?) and was fixed with some oversize self-tappers and a few rubber spacers to account for the curve in the bumper.

It was solid enough to almost eliminate vibration on tarmac, although I'd question its longevity on corrugations or off-road. Light spread and depth of the Korr was good enough at sane speeds, and excellent in value-for-money terms.

Sadly, that JGC is no longer with us due to a theft, recovered damaged, insurance write-off saga a while back. Its replacement came with an ARB bar so fitting lights is less of a challenge.

  #23  
Old 14-12-2018
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So did you reinforce the self tappers from the back? One of mine is already nearly stripped.

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  #24  
Old 14-12-2018
Vikings37  Vikings37 is offline
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No, hence the concern about rougher roads. I just worked on the 'bigger is stronger' principle with the self-tappers, but that setup was still tight after more than 60,000kms, some on Outback 'highways'.

Despite others mentioning the easy removal of the lower bumper, the three times I tried it resulted in failure as I could not release the inner-most tabs without excessive force.
  #25  
Old 14-12-2018
croweater  croweater is offline
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Was it hard to get the air dam off??
  #26  
Old 18-12-2018
Tucker1982  Tucker1982 is offline
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I’ve got the stedi number plate bracket and there light bar, the light bar is quite heavy and I get no movement but I do have the unreal hidden winch and did brace the bracket of the fairlead
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  #27  
Old 18-12-2018
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I see two large bolts on the fairlead. What do they bolt to?

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  #28  
Old 18-12-2018
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Hi mate the 2 large bolts are to the winch frame
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