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Old 25-04-2023
RichieJKU2011  RichieJKU2011 is offline
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Default after market Clutch kit

Dear forum, my local jeep guy says my thrust-bearing is noisy and i need a new clutch kit.. its over $1500 for OEM but looking on line less than half that for a kit .. has anyone used such a kit ? are they ok?

also a problem i guess is that the repairers would fit it or wont warrant the job,,, but.. ?

thoughts / comments welcome
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Old 25-04-2023
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Clutches can be finicky and sometimes aftermarket clutches work well and other times they can induce annoying issues such as shuddering. I usually use genuine if the job is big. Some vehicles are easy to swap out clutches like rear wheel drive with great access so I might take a chance with a aftermarket one. But if the job is hard to do like a front wheel drive where the whole power unit has to be removed then I only use genuine as I don’t want to do it again.
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Old 26-04-2023
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What about the flywheel will you be changing that along with the clutch, as that is bloody expensive if you go OEM about triple after market equivalents.
How many Km's have you got on the Wrangler petrol or diesel ?
Mines a 2.8 CRD with 180,000km, seen some lasting to 225,000km.
It appears diesel clutch's are beefier than the petrol ones so I'm led to believe.

Last edited by RLT; 26-04-2023 at 12:44 AM.
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Old 26-04-2023
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What model, year, engine and size, manual or otherwise, mileage is your vehicle. Pointless asking questions without this information.
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Old 26-04-2023
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Petrol or diesel? 3.6/3.8? They all affect what's available & reliable.
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Old 26-04-2023
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ok apologies its a 2011 JK 3.8 petrol ,, manual of course Km 166,000
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Old 27-04-2023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichieJKU2011 View Post
ok apologies its a 2011 JK 3.8 petrol ,, manual of course Km 166,000
OK so if it has a 3.8L V6 it has the same engine as mine. But are you sure? I thought the 2011 was a 3.6L V6. No... u r right... it has the 3.8L....I checked.

If u r going to put in a new thrust bearing this is major work cos as far as I know it requires the separation of the clutch etc from drive line... same as for replacing a clutch. All this is a good 8hrs work hence the price.

Since this major separation is so costly, at the same time as you replace the thrust bearing you should also replace the clutch (definitely if it has done 166000km: my OE only managed 80000km), the flywheel (u could machine it but better to change it), the throw out bearing, the gear selector gate, the pivot ball and nut, the throw out bearing and spring, and the clutch slave cylinder. The clutch and flywheel will be the largest expense items. You may be able to buy all these items as a complete kit in which case u may save some dollars.

You might also think about changing the rear seal as well cos if it fails soon after replacing all this stuff it will require another costly strip down. And it will be pretty close to failing and needing replacement anyway. All this means that you will have a pretty much new clutch system that will last another 150000km or more.

All of these parts are pretty much available in Australian markets now and a very lot cheaper now than getting from USA cos of huge price increases in the USA, dollar inequity and transport. You should look through eBay, Sparesbox (Australian supplier) and Rockauto (USA) all of which have pretty competitive prices and a good and fast delivery set up. JeepKonnection and DBOR may also supply some of these parts. Do not buy from Jeep dealer unless you have extremely deep pockets. Just google the parts you want and look at them from Australian suppliers. Buy the parts yourself rather than getting your mechanic to source them as h/she will double the price on them. Find a mechanic (4x4 specialist is best) who will fit them and only charge the labour. Any competent mechanic should be able to do the work, though. I also supply all liquids etc so I am also not being charged double price by mechanic. I have been told that 60% of the work of mechanics is now fitting parts supplied by owners.

The OE clutch is quite soft and weak IMO. A non OE will be fine but fit one that is a bit more heavy duty. It doesn't have to be heavy, heavy duty, just a bit firmer with firmer holding etc especially if you tow a lot.. I use the Centerforce dual friction clutch that I bought from the USA years ago... a much stronger one and with the same clutch pedal feel. These are now nearly US$1000. Any clutch that u buy will be better than OE, which is usually an OMIX or CROWN made one. MOPAR will often be one of these units but re-branded and a lot more pricey.

Another thing, if you are hearing a lot of rattling coming from the clutch, this could be coming from a worn pivot ball and gear selector gate rather than the thrust bearing. This is a fairly common thing with the JK and a common point of misdiagnosis of rattles coming from the clutch area. If it is this it will require the same strip down to replace so may as well do it all at once.

Yeah it will be a bit harsh on the dollar side all up but you won't have to worry about it for many years.... I just accept it as wear and tear on items that dont last forever. The $ cost for all the parts, depending on what u buy, will be about AUS $1100-1300.00 and labour could be as much as $1500. All up I would budget $3000 and hope for some change.

Do you live in Melbourne? Or nearby? I have some of these parts.

I hope all this helps. Hope I haven't said anything that is wrong ...I am not a mechanic but have had to do all this replacement stuff over the years ....
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Last edited by humdingerslammer; 27-04-2023 at 08:17 AM.
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