Grand Willys Project

[Gazzo]

I saw that and started imagining a "detail" permanently inserted much like they do now in all the new "Jeeps" like logos deep inside the headlights and so on.
Great work by the way.

[SeaComms]

Easter eggs

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[bruggz351]

I'm still blown away by the ultra sanitary workshop.

My shed is like 'Pigpen'. I tidy it up, turn around and WW111 has been!!!

As always Marcus, superlative. I just wish the updates were longer...

BTW, the lead working bat, you mentioned. Is that similar in the way it works as a deadblow hammer??

I'm just as interested in the tools, and the use of them, as the project itself.

This is one massive learning experience, as well as an informative piece of someones project.

cheers

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by Stressball

Nice work as always Marcus, why am I not surprised that your camera work gets the same exceptional level of detail as your fabrication skills.. I appreciated the wall hung chromed grill captured perfectly centred and aligned in the gap above the rear window in one of the above photos...its the little things

Well spotted. I like to keep an eye on the backgrounds too.

Originally Posted by bruggz351

I'm still blown away by the ultra sanitary workshop.

My shed is like 'Pigpen'. I tidy it up, turn around and WW111 has been!!!

As always Marcus, superlative. I just wish the updates were longer...

BTW, the lead working bat, you mentioned. Is that similar in the way it works as a deadblow hammer??

I'm just as interested in the tools, and the use of them, as the project itself.

This is one massive learning experience, as well as an informative piece of someones project.

cheers

Works the same way but spreads the impact over a larger area so you don't have to go back and forth to get it all even. Thats takes far more time then any part of the process.
I use steel versions too to smooth out panels and they are called flippers here or slappers in the US.
For aluminium work they use a wooden version with leather on the face so removes any marking for jobs that are going to be polished.
Can make them yourself easily enough.

[Gojeep]

The upper frame work has an extra strap that runs underneath everything. So I first welded this to each side to make sure I could get to it. Level is clamped in to keep everything straight as the glass won't bend!


Made a new upper piece for the window and this was folded over the strap and spot welded to it like factory.


Next was the very top piece that is also part of the gutter that the roof skin sits in. It sits in a channel so I made one for it.


Added the other folds it needed and hammered over the gutter edge over my smallest diameter T dolly.


All three layers are spot welded together and did both rows with the same spacing as factory. I spot welded it in before the inner window frame was finished to be able to get to it.


Inner window frame pieces are all welded in as well now. Actually drilled out the upper factory spot welds and rewelded it as it hadn't been put on level at the factory.


Rear window and wall all finished for now. I'm glad I made the window wider and did not shorten the height at all. Looks nice and chopped as it is and actually have more window area than stock!

[Tyvokka]

Holy moly guacamole! In my dreams....

No words!!

[Gojeep]

Time to start chopping 2" out of the door window frames.


With the rear wall cut lower down than the cut in the window frame, I will have to address the angle so it bends in the same spot. If I should ever do one again, I will line the cuts up from the start.


At the same height as where the rear wall was sectioned, I cut into the window frame. Didn't go all the way through so I would get a smoother bend.


Now the window frame lines up perfectly.


There was a slight taper to the window frame, so rather than cut slots to shrink the wider section, I stretched out the upper narrow section to match by hammering against the T dolly.


Used a offset bolster to move the fold to match and stretch the corners as well.


Lines up well enough now to blend in.


Was able to weld all the way around to get full strength.


Angle matches the rear corner as well.


Now weld it up and then to extend it forward to meet the front of the door. Not only have to add the 4.5" that I made the door longer, but extra due to the chop as well.


Due to the curve in the door, but flat on the inside, I had to pick the best place to cut it through that it would still match up with the new front section without ending up with two widest points!


With the edges being straight, I could slowly trim up the new piece until it all lined up with the rulers. The backside will be checked as well to make sure that stays flat and true.


Fortunately it worked out well that differences in the age of the pressings of the door top worked in my favour and was able to match the 1948 rear section with the 1958 front section with the extra length needed. Nearly there in this shot. Doing it this way saves having an extra join in the top of the frame.


The other side was completed as well. Thought I was finished but noticed below where I had made my join that there was some lead fill there.


Removed the lead and found a bad repair job that only had a few tacks holding it together!


Cut the whole affected area out as had been ground quite thin previously. Also my digital level gauge showed this was tilting at the different angle to the back of the window frame. That would be bad for the glass as would jam up and not run smoothly.


Welded in a new piece and got the angle to match so all 4 window frame sides were exactly the same.


Now with the window frames done I will have something to line the A pillar up against to get even door gaps.


Starting to get a bit of an idea how it all will turn out.