PRND shifter Lights on all the time

[vijith555]

Originally Posted by drover

There's a lot of myths out there, having the battery disconnected doesn't cause any problems though no matter how long its unplugged......

In mine I would just use a can of Penrite P26 Diesel Foaming Intake Cleaner or some LIQUI MOLY Diesel Engine Intake Decarb squirt it down the EGR hose connection as per instructions, that should clean out the oil residue in the hoses as well as the soot/oil mix in the intake manifold, while some say it craps up the DPF I very much doubt it if used as directed and taken for a good run at speed after it......... have used it once or twice in other vehicles with no ill effects......

I know now especially hearing how long some have kept it disconnected for with no issues. Might even do a longer disconnect again after I am back from my trip. Definitely fixed the PRND lights bug I am happy with.

So yesterday I had the CEL lit up all day and this morning when I started the car up - no CEL and have done a few cycles already so far didn't come up. I am sure to see it again soon but good to know without me having to manually clear the code, the computer is able to clear the code itself too at times which means it is constantly monitoring and trying to be CEL free lol. Also says whatever this is, it is still in its mild state. I just watched a video of the EGR hose (the one with a sock on it) being removed and someone cleaning the crap out if it. Looked scary how much build up was in there! I think this one is easier to remove than the other pipe for sure plus I now know how to pull out the MAF too but haven't done it. It looks easy.

Spoke to the Ultra Tune place I last serviced this car and told him about the CEL and code - the response was useless. All he had to say is he sees many cars with different issues and cannot comment much on this one (tried to sound like he's not that sure about this one despite me showing him a screenshot of exact code). And you can tell he knows exactly what it is but just trying his best to sound like he won't know till he does like 50 tests on it. In the end he said its safe to drive the car with that code and it is the flap that closes when you shut the car down so that must be buggered. And I was like there you go you know what it is lol. Not taking it to him if I ever do want this checked out by someone. Going to ring a few Jeep specialists around here and see if they are more willing to speak at least. Last thing I want is for something this simple to be diagnosed by some mechanic who knows not much about them and going through hours of work (billing me too) and then finally telling me we need to hand this to manufacturer. The Ultra Tune guy said something like this too.

[FARWEST]

You dont need to ever take it to a Dealership unless you are getting factory recall performed....stay away from dealerships....very poor level of expertise....you may find 1 in 200 that have any genuine skill onboard....not sure where your located but if you let the forum know your general locale you will get members able to supply you with recommended workshops

[drover]

Firstly I should correct an error I made calling the PCV hose the EGR hose, the PCV hose comes from the front of engine and goes to the intake where the plumbing from the air box jons up to the turbo intake, it vents the oil air from the sump so it can mix into tar from the sooty EGR system.

The pipe with the sock (heat shield( around it is the EGR Diffuser, makes sure the soot isn't in a big lump when it lands in the manifold, a clean every other service can't hurt............ The MAF is located in the pipe at the air box, it doesn't need cleaning very often unless you use greasy filters, its in a hard plastic tube.. most get MAF and MAP mixed up, the one covered in crud is the MAP...

The MAP sensor is just in front of the turbo at the back of the valley, pull the yellow tab on the connector to unplug and use a T40 driver to unscrew it thena good wriggle will get it out, a T40 driver, a good squirt with sensor cleaner each service isn't a bad idea, do not poke at the sensor, just hold it away from everything and drown it till it comes clean, only use sensor cleaner, don't poke it or try to brush or blow it clean, you will be surprised at how light your wallet will be if you damage it...

Plenty of pics of them on here......

I doubt disconnecting the battery will do any more good, some codes will activate when things don;t boot up properly, some just have a comms error while others something glitches then comes good, these will all clear on their own, hard codes which can kill the engine will stay there, the ones that are serious if not looked at will cause limp mode then shut down......

I would have a go at removing the intercooler pipe from the manifold.. the clip in question is shown in this vid, which is good at showing just what the clip does

INTERCOOLER PIPE HOSE REMOVAL BMW MINI COOPER EASY - YouTube

subtitles is helpfull to understand what the hell he's saying.

Once its off you can have a look, see if the flap is flapping in the breeze or not, or oily or is cruddy............

[vijith555]

Originally Posted by FARWEST

You dont need to ever take it to a Dealership unless you are getting factory recall performed....stay away from dealerships....very poor level of expertise....you may find 1 in 200 that have any genuine skill onboard....not sure where your located but if you let the forum know your general locale you will get members able to supply you with recommended workshops

I agree the people at these dealerships are just useless. I am not sure if they are even capable of doing a service properly yet alone work on an issue. Something not that hard to fix could become a huge mess with these clowns.

I am in Perth and currently looking for someone who can have a look at this for me. Thanks

[vijith555]

Originally Posted by drover

Firstly I should correct an error I made calling the PCV hose the EGR hose, the PCV hose comes from the front of engine and goes to the intake where the plumbing from the air box jons up to the turbo intake, it vents the oil air from the sump so it can mix into tar from the sooty EGR system.

The pipe with the sock (heat shield( around it is the EGR Diffuser, makes sure the soot isn't in a big lump when it lands in the manifold, a clean every other service can't hurt............ The MAF is located in the pipe at the air box, it doesn't need cleaning very often unless you use greasy filters, its in a hard plastic tube.. most get MAF and MAP mixed up, the one covered in crud is the MAP...

The MAP sensor is just in front of the turbo at the back of the valley, pull the yellow tab on the connector to unplug and use a T40 driver to unscrew it thena good wriggle will get it out, a T40 driver, a good squirt with sensor cleaner each service isn't a bad idea, do not poke at the sensor, just hold it away from everything and drown it till it comes clean, only use sensor cleaner, don't poke it or try to brush or blow it clean, you will be surprised at how light your wallet will be if you damage it...

Thank you for the detailed instructions on what to look for and this helps in my learning too. My first diesel and just learning how complex these things are.

If I get a chance I would definitely like to take some of these apart and have a look. The MAP sensor that comes off with a T40 is tempting as it seems to be the easiest but when you said damaging this could be heavy I got to make sure I’m careful. Sadly I doing think and of the logbook services includes these cleanup’s which is a shame. I’m asking for too much here. I’m getting very good fuel economy on this so far so I guess the sensors must be still not covered in a lot of crap.

As much as it is tempting to try these at home with my current work schedule and lack of time at home I am thinking it’s best I paddle along for a couple of thousand more kms like this and get it inspected at next service. Definitely want to try giving the car to a more Jeep focused garage. At least they would attempt to do the steps you described here to see if it helps. Surely a guy who knows Jeeps would know to check inside the intake area to see if the flap is working or if it needs cleaning.. Instead of guesswork.

CEL keeps coming on and off so I know whatever it is, it’s not that bad so far. Does look like a good clean could fix this - if I ever get some time!

Only thing I miss badly is being able to remote start the car as I am getting ready to go to work so it’s all warmed up because if it’s in a cycle with CEL, remote starter starts the car and then shuts it down in few seconds due to CEL present. Similar as when the car is low on fuel. This is bothering me more than the CEL on the dash on some days lol

[drover]

Not a fan of this remote start business with CRD's, you get it idling away to warm up so your feet are warm meanwhile the the EGR is open and filling the manifold with exhaust crud for however long it takes for you to get in and put some pedal to metal, then they do a stop/start commute to work where again more soot injected into engine, no wonder so many diesels have problems .........
Mine gets good runs all the time, no stop/start or idling other than roadworks and even then if its a long wait then I shut down, I get in the wagon, hit the start,put on seatbelt and by then its booted up and running, time to select D and get moving............. QLD not really cold and mine lives in a garage, greatest invention for wet days, certainly too old for the mad dash across the yard in pouring rain nowadays......

[vijith555]

Originally Posted by drover

Not a fan of this remote start business with CRD's, you get it idling away to warm up so your feet are warm meanwhile the the EGR is open and filling the manifold with exhaust crud for however long it takes for you to get in and put some pedal to metal, then they do a stop/start commute to work where again more soot injected into engine, no wonder so many diesels have problems .........
Mine gets good runs all the time, no stop/start or idling other than roadworks and even then if its a long wait then I shut down, I get in the wagon, hit the start,put on seatbelt and by then its booted up and running, time to select D and get moving............. QLD not really cold and mine lives in a garage, greatest invention for wet days, certainly too old for the mad dash across the yard in pouring rain nowadays......

Should have mentioned I used remote start before and known about this yikes!

In Perth it doesn’t get too cold but my cars live outside the garage so in winter it’s quite frosty to get in and I have to take a 3 year old to day care on the way to work. So this is my first car with remote start and I made the absolute use out of getting the car warm before going not knowing it is harmful to engine on long run. More importantly I come from petrol cars and my understanding was it’s always nicer to get the engine warmed up for about 5 minutes instead of start and slap to D and run because cold engines and foot down is harsh. But yes I did know modern cars didn’t need warming up but still did it thinking it’s good. To be honest I used remote start once only in the morning for about 5 minutes max before my journey to get the engine warm as it is nicer to drive a warmed up engine than cold engine feel.

In summer the remote start is really good to get the interior cooled more than warming up the engine and it is such a cool factor having the ride start before I get in..it’s like a the party trick among friends with this car lol..but most times it’s done for the cool factor and I don’t run it long just get in and go.

I will remember what you said now and use it less..I do drive city to work start stop too..but when i put my foot down the moment I get a chance I really do..heavy footed driver here..drive like it’s stolen always haha..

You should see my neighbour with his diesel Fortuner - has the thing started for about 10 minutes everyday before he goes..and I think damn he likes to warm up his engine!