I've posted a few things in the "What did you do to your Grand Today" thread that seems to have prompted a bit of interest. Hence, as requested, I am going to attempt to document some of my work in a bit more detail to help others.
A bit about me...
I'm a '60's child, married, two kids (one adult and the other soon to be) and hold a senior position as a professional expert in the mining industry. In my youth, I raced off-road. I used to have a wall full of trophies. Now I have a box full somewhere in the garage, if only I could find it.
Fifteen years ago, two friends and I set up a boutique electronics company as a paying hobby. My job was to program the Atmel AVR chips (this was long before Arduino existed). I also had a lot of exposure to circuit design and construction, so I am pretty handy with a soldering iron. I also built my own PVR (personal video recorder) for the challenge. Sounds impressive? It's really just a computer running MythTV software and a gazillion TV tuners hanging off it.
I purchased my 2004 2.7CRD WG in May 2017 after quite a bit of searching for a low-cost but capable 4WD. She has a few issues, but in terms of comfort and capability, I think I hit the jackpot. My soon-to-be-adult son enjoys going 4WD-ing with a few blokes from church once a month of so. Nothing too extreme, just explore, have fun, fish, swim, get stuck, snatch out, and then come home and fix the things we broke. The blokes have given me the CB call-sign of "Cheap Jeep." I don't mind, because they also know that I'll try stuff they won't - mostly because, as one said, "If he breaks it, at least he knows how to fix it."
Enough about me. This is already getting into TLDR territory!
This is my first "How TO" so please be gentle with the comments. More topics will follow, I hope, including more details on fixing the electroluminescent lighting in the WG gear changer for around $5 - without grafting in LED's.
Overhauling the Transmission Control Unit
First, a special shout to Kaido at
www.jeepswj.com. I emailed him asking about his replacement PCB. He asked me about the error codes, then informed my NOT to buy one from him but instead to replace the transfer case switch. I recommend his fault code software, but please donate to support his work.
Many of the pictures below are linked from jeepswj.com. I trust he does not object.
Step 1 - Remove the console:
Undo the six screws:
Take care to get the correct screws! The two on the right below are hidden by the rear cup holder, if you have one. Open the cup holder to find them:
Step 2 - Remove the TCU:
If you have not yet done so, now would be a great time to disconnect your battery. Did I leave that part out? It does not matter... until now.
Disconnect the battery NOW.
The TCU lives under the console. On RHD vehicles, it would be right by the driver's left calf:
Simply unplug the cable (you HAVE disconnected the battery, right?) and remove it. Mine was held in place by a single zip-tie (aka cable tie). Just cut the cable tie.
Step 3 - Dismantle the TCU:
The PCB is held in by four clips, marked red below. I ended up borrowing 4 knives from the kitchen to simultaneously pry all four clips to allow the PCB to pop out. (I chose my moment... when the wife was out shopping. What she does not know won't hurt her, but it will me if she finds out).
Take note of the slot at the bottom of the case, marked in yellow. This is to hold the back end of the PCB when you reassemble. Miss that and you'll be in a world of hurt. It won't go back together if you have the case upside down. Please don't ask how I know this!
Step 4 - Solder the terminals:
This step is not for the faint-hearted. Practice your soldering skills on something less expensive first. Make sure you have a good quality
temperature controlled iron. If it's not temperature controlled, don't go near it for PCB work. Mine is a 46W Goot from Jaycar. It sometimes struggles with automotive work. I notice they have a pretty good looking 80W one here:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/goot-240v-...-iron/p/TS1430
Also get the 0.3mm tip. This is PCB work - not plumbing!
While there, pick up a tin of electronic cleaning solvent and PCB lacquer. You'll need them later:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/circuit-bo...y-can/p/NA1002
https://www.jaycar.com.au/electronic...y-can/p/NA1008
Oh! Get solder too, and an iron holder - preferably one with a tip-cleaner built in. Make sure the workstation is comfortable. You're going to be there for an hour or more. This is my station. Note the magnifying lamp. It's great. You may or may not need one depending on how good your eyes are. Working with one is an acquired skill, like drinking beer. (More on beer later. Right now you need to be stone cold sober and have steady hands. Keep remembering how expensive the TCU is to replace if you get this wrong!)
The terminals to re-solder are the ones below. See "Tip 5" here:
http://jeepswj.com/tips/
Just melt the solder and daub on a little more fresh solder. If you make a messy blob, clean the soldering tip and re-melt without daubing any on. This will remove some solder. If you make a REALLY big mess, get an old plastic Bic biro and pull out the ink/point. (Remember making blow-guns at school?) Melt the solder and use the biro in your mouth to blow away the excess. Be careful where you blow it to. Always blow towards the edge of the PCB, never onto it.
Take your time. Stay calm. If you start getting frustrated, go do something else for a while.
Step 5 - Clean and Lacquer:
You remembered to get the cleaner and lacquer, right? Take the PCB to a spot where a bit of spillage will not matter. I did mine on the road outside, but I live in a cul-de-sac. It might be a bad idea if you live on Bourke St. Don't be too concerned about environmental contamination. The cleaner will evaporate before it goes 10 feet.
Put on a set of gloves and give the PCB a good dousing with the cleaner. Flush away any grime or greasiness. Set it aside for about half an hour to dry, then spray it with the lacquer. I gave mine two heavy coats each side, with some run-off. This is not decorative painting, it's protective. Mine looked like this when done:
Step 6 - Reassemble:
I don't have any pictures here, but if you have gotten this far I am sure you can figure it out. Follow the steps in reverse, ensuring you get the PCB into the housing the right way around.
You'll need a zip-tie to hold the TCU back in place.
I ended up prying out the ash-tray module to be able to wiggle in the console. Your milage may vary.
Step 7 - Test drive:
Okay, now you can go get beer and reward yourself for a half-day well spent.
More "Jeep Geek" from "Cheap Jeep" to come (if you like this stuff).