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Old 3 Weeks Ago
Adrian D's Avatar
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Default High chance of a headgasket issue

Seeing all my symptoms, it seems like combustion gasses are entering the cooling system...fun times...reminds me of the VM powered XJ....

2.7 engines are rather easy to find here on this side of the world.

My Jeep has 299.000 km (on the clock, could very well be way more). Doesn't use oil, starts nice even at -10*C, doesn't smoke under load anymore, new motor mounts, 60.000km on the rebuilt transmission, rebuilt HP pump, all the minor normal issues sorted....

It does have a broken exhaust stud (cyl #5), at least 2 broken injector bolts and a leak at the turbo actuator arm, not that these issues caused me problems. In some situations it spews out some white smoke at warm start, could be coolant.

Give me a hint for the decisions (even mixing between them)

1. Swap a used head, change valve seals, replace head gasket, refurb injectors, new exhaust studs and call it a day (1100$). Hopefully no surprises in the cylinders.

2. Swap used engine, known mileage but untested (1600$) + use the good parts off my engine.

3. Buy complete used car, known mileage, so I can test the engine (1500-3000$), swap the engine and use the good parts off my engine. Could be either a Mercedes or a Jeep, plenty of cars to chose from

For option #2 I have multiple options, for instance:

170.000km bare engine from a reputable breaker, 1000km away
160.000km complete engine from the same breaker.
190.000km bare engine with 2 broken injector bolts (costs as much as a good head),
270.000km complete engine locally.
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Hey I wonder what happens if I plug this wire in therAAAAAGGGGGGHHHH............

Last edited by Adrian D; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:32 PM.
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I wonder how much it costs to freight engines from you to me, and if we could both make a quid from selling them here?

On topic... I usually go for the devil I know. Doing up your existing head builds on the work that you have already done. If keeping the Jeep on the road matters, then you could buy a cheaper high mileage engine (with or without a vehicle attached) do up its head and straight swap. Less down time this way.
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A bottle of Chemiweld in the radiator $10.
Its worth a try. You run the car until no more bubbles in the coolant ( better to use straight water while treating). I have had it in cooling systems for up to 6 months. Instructions say 20 minutes.
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I'd get a new head and gaskets.
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I'd do the head, better the devil you know.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodgie View Post
I'd do the head, better the devil you know.
Attaboy!

It's the same reason I'm about to spend $2.5k (-ish) doing injectors. I've already spent about the same on the A/C and another $1.5k on suspension. The car's a "keeper" so I'd rather spend on it than scrap it and start again.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
A bottle of Chemiweld in the radiator $10.
Its worth a try. You run the car until no more bubbles in the coolant ( better to use straight water while treating). I have had it in cooling systems for up to 6 months. Instructions say 20 minutes.
Is it the brand from Supercheap Auto? Goss?
There's a guy in Australia which did this to his 2.7, then pushed his luck and used the citric acid flush and it still held, I'm extremely tempted to try this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeanLuke View Post
I wonder how much it costs to freight engines from you to me, and if we could both make a quid from selling them here?

On topic... I usually go for the devil I know. Doing up your existing head builds on the work that you have already done. If keeping the Jeep on the road matters, then you could buy a cheaper high mileage engine (with or without a vehicle attached) do up its head and straight swap. Less down time this way.
I'll find out about freight since I have to ship a flipped Patrol Y60 front axle to New Zealand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaneWJ View Post
I'd get a new head and gaskets.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodgie View Post
I'd do the head, better the devil you know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeanLuke View Post
Attaboy!

It's the same reason I'm about to spend $2.5k (-ish) doing injectors. I've already spent about the same on the A/C and another $1.5k on suspension. The car's a "keeper" so I'd rather spend on it than scrap it and start again.
Thank you guys! That seems like the most sensible solution. And if I do find a nasty surprise inside, then I can just swap the motor.
A nasty surprise is unlikely, because as I've said, no oil consumption, good cold starts, even cold started it won't blow off the oil fill cap.

I'd hate to start over with another car too.

Another engine would probably be a Mercedes engine, so the oil pan would come off.

Summer is right around the corner and then I can drive my MX5, so the Jeep can stay under the knife until August.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefoot
Hey I wonder what happens if I plug this wire in therAAAAAGGGGGGHHHH............
  #8  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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[QUOTE=Adrian D;1646534]Is it the brand from Supercheap Auto? Goss?
There's a guy in Australia which did this to his 2.7, then pushed his luck and used the citric acid flush and it still held, I'm extremely tempted to try this.



Yes thats the stuff. Its been around for over 50 years.
If you are seeing little bubbles in the overflow tank, it should fix it.
I think its best to drain coolant & flush with water, add chemiweld.
You need to run it a bit especially getting it hotter than normal without overheating & wait for the bubbles to stop. I just filled the XJ & ran it for months. After a week or so it stopped loosing water & the bubbles stopped. I left it in there until the water pump failed,it had a slight leak before the bubbles started, 350k was ok for the pump. When I replaced it, I used rainwater & inhibitor. 10k later & all is still good. I know of an old cortina that was still good after 100k. The stuff is a silicate ~ water glass. They use a similar chemical for sealing rainwater tanks. It forms silicates with the metal in the crack/gap & it is as permanent as you can get. For $10 its well worth a try.
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Gday Adrian, i too have used chemiweld with great success over the years,works well on cracked heads and gaskets.Main thing to remember that chemiweld works ALL the other brands are crap and do not work for long.You can still fix it properly later.As stated you have to get engine hot for it to work.If you cannot get it locally get someone here to send you some..
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