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  #1  
Old 16-02-2014
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Craigo_s  Craigo_s is offline
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Default 2.8crd with high k's

G'day guys, I'm looking to upgrade my wj and am looking at a few jk's , just want to know what you think the life span of a well looked after crd is? I know most diesels will do 400k+ as many of mine in the past have but I've never owned a jeep diesel .
Would a 2.8 with close to 200k be worth looking at?

Cheers
Craig


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  #2  
Old 16-02-2014
Thommoed  Thommoed is offline
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Default 2.8crd with high k's

Check out the service history properly. Mine has 120 and still strong
  #3  
Old 17-02-2014
MidnightMods  MidnightMods is offline
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coming from somone who owns and works on many CRD jk's.

Check for service history on oil changes, Oil in the intake is the biggest problem due to the crank case breather set up, mixed with the EGR, If the car has a Green diesel tune (turns EGR off) and had it for a while it is a very big plus for it. (Almost always I would say stay way from engines with reflashes or tunes, but in this case its a big bonus as it turns the EGR off completely)
The CRD's with a tune and a provent 200 or the crank case breather pipe removed from the intake will have no problems doing 400k.

Check that it has had its timing belt changed , if it has 200k on the clock then it would have atleast had 2 changed belts already.

Timing belt change before 90,000k, water pump change before 200k (its not as important then the belt change)

Looked after engine bay as the radiators in them get blocked from dust and bugs over time, even if they never go off road which leads running hot and long term damage.

Fuel filter changes which can be easily seen as the filter sits under the drivers door, Just look for signs off the bracket being removed often.

take the car for a long freeway drive, 80km and 100km, cruise control on and feel for the slightest misfires or shutter, if ran with poor diesel the injectors get damaged (not because its a JK, just because the type of bosch injector used) how ever these can be changed for around $500-600each brand new.

last thing, get a cheap OBDII scanner and torque pro app and check for error codes.
This program you can also do a MAF idle check, it will give you an idea how much the engine is sucking air at idle, this will indicate if the engine is blocked up/caked on with soot and oil due to the crankcase set up.

If you got any direct Q's about the crd jk, feel free to pm me
  #4  
Old 17-02-2014
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Keep in mind that your not comparing like for like on diesels anymore.

The "old school" diesels were incredible robust which led to long life... at the expense of performance - the new "light weight - high speed" diesel engines have substituted mechanical strength for electronic complexity.

If a modern diesel just squirted all the fuel into the cylinder in one injection like an old diesel the crank would be on the ground before you blinked an eye.

So assumptions of engine life based on traditional diesel reliability are yet to be proven and ignore the major changes in engine construction. The continual string of JK diesel issues is proof of that.... if I had to put a number on it I'd suggest 50 times greater than the old 3.8 petrol. PentaStar too new to compare at this moment.
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Old 17-02-2014
tim2chins  tim2chins is offline
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midnight mods,

you mention MAF test. I have a wifi OBD reader using dash command and I get a value ( I think 90 or so @ idle). Is there a list or guide to what parameters these figures should be.
ie Same as engine temp, I get a scan figure, my dash needle sits half way, but is the reading in spec?, fuel rail pressure, MAP etc

I have tried googling but no luck

Cheers Tim
  #6  
Old 17-02-2014
MidnightMods  MidnightMods is offline
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Forget the dash gauge, I can get almost to 105degs before the thing even moves...
I will have to compair mine and so others to get an idea, My intake has been oil and soot free for around 30k now so I would have the best one to compare with.

Here is a facebook page I made just for CRD owners, It may get a more direct response
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1404..._comment_reply
  #7  
Old 17-04-2023
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Default Agree with Mighty....

Just my 2cents...
I agree with MM... the old cast iron heads and blocks were 1m k's but as he said at the expense of economy. The new alloy heads and whizz bang common rail injection systems are a far cry from those days.
I had a 2.8 diesel pajero which had mechanical injection, chain cam drive, but an alloy head....
Changed the head x2 in 450k km due to cracking around the valve seats.

Back to my CRD
I had a belt strip after failing to replace (my bad), busted up all the rockers but I now know they are "sacrificial" to the event... as I had them all replaced and new belt fitted 80k km ago. (I have 295k km on the clock now). I religiously change oil and filter.. often at 6 or 8k km. Regular fuel filter changes every 20k km. Don't forget the air filter every 15k km.
My suspension has been the biggest bain... gone through x3 drag links, and x3 tie bars.. again my bad thinking that a cheap one would be the same as a Mopar one... doh!. one drag link only lasted 12k km. The present tie bar only on 80k km but its cactus. I wont say the full name of the manufacturer of the drag link and tie bar but they have royal sounding head gear!
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