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15-11-2017
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AJOR Gold
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Bowral
Posts: 274 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 10
Liked 118 Times in 69 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by want2travel
Oops - forgot the text
The series of images show how I installed and Anderson plug on a MY2015 Laredo. I used a full kit from Kick Ass together with a 1 m extension. All the joints and termination (except for the pickup have pre-clamped Anderson plugs.
1. The positive is picked up from the + jump start terminal under the bonnet at the right hand side rear and this feeds to an inline fuse and on the first Anderson plug. All the cabling has been cover with loom tube from JayCar and all cabling has ben secured with cable ties.
2, The negative is picked up from the - jump start terminal, There is just enough space in the opening surrounding the cable bundle to feed the single cable. The negative feeds back into the first Anderson plug, bypassing the fuse.
The cable then passes across to the left of the vehicle behind the bulkhead separating the engine form the wiper mechanism. Cable ties are important to keep the power cable away from the wiper mechanism.
3. On the left hand side in the rear corner behind the bulkhead the VSR was mounted on the bulkhead with two bolts. The cable crossing from the right was then plugged into the VSR input Anderson plug. The supplied long cable to the rear (has Anderson conductors connect to one end but without the plastic Anderson plug fitting while the other end has the full plug) was then fed down through a hole in the large rubber plug in the bottom of the compartment under the VSR (hard to see once installed but not too hard top do). A piece of loom tube was placed above the rubber plug. The long cable was then fed down between the wheel arch and the lining and then a long piece of loom tube place over the entire long cable.
4. The cable was the picked up at the bottom of the wheel arch and fastened with cable ties and fed back in the space under the door sill.
5. A bit hard to see in the photo but the cable goes to the rear in the space and behind the supports so it is held securely.
6. At the rear it is fed up just in front of the rear wheel arch.
7. Then up alongside the fuel tank.
8. The over the top of the fuel tank and over the diff.
9. It the is goes straight back along the underneath of the floor.
10. A bracket was made up from a piece of flat aluminium (Bunnings) and this was fastened to the bumper mount. The conductor ends where then fitted to the shell on the final Anderson plug and the plug attached to the bracket.
11. All done
This approach is fast, fairly neat and does not require removing panels or installing more connectors to the already cramped battery space. Despite the several Anderson plugs there is very little power loss and it runs my caravan fridge (15A) without any problems - I would think it would carry a much greater current if required. All cable terminations have been done for you so no problems with buying/borrowing crimping devices.
Bob
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Bob
Thanks for that detailed walk through and I’m sure it will benefit many who use this forum, but I have decided to pay Jeep $250 to do it for me when I get the 1000km service in a couple of weeks. The day before I leave for an 3000km round trip to QLD. In this case time is money and I just don’t have the time to get this done myself. As Barboots said the three way fridge will struggle on the caravan battery so I need this done ASAP.
Much appreciated though.
Hoppy
__________________
MY17 Grand Cherokee Trailhawk
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16-11-2017
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CrawlerStar
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 284 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 54
Liked 111 Times in 73 Posts
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Bear voltage drop in mind when specifying cable diameter. It's usually somewhere in the vicinity of 15 metres round trip from the car battery to a caravan fridge and back.
Cheers, Steve
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16-11-2017
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Newbie
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 31 What Jeep do I drive?: WK
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 3 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy99
Bob
Thanks for that detailed walk through and I’m sure it will benefit many who use this forum, but I have decided to pay Jeep $250 to do it for me when I get the 1000km service in a couple of weeks. The day before I leave for an 3000km round trip to QLD. In this case time is money and I just don’t have the time to get this done myself. As Barboots said the three way fridge will struggle on the caravan battery so I need this done ASAP.
Much appreciated though.
Hoppy
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Hope you've given them instructions about the size of wiring you want etc. In my experience they'll use the bare minimum size. Also make sure they are putting a Voltage Sensitive Relay or some other isolation system on it! And a fuse or circuit breaker!
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16-11-2017
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Established Member
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 137 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 8
Liked 19 Times in 11 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by want2travel
Oops - forgot the text
The series of images show how I installed and Anderson plug on a MY2015 Laredo. I used a full kit from Kick Ass together with a 1 m extension. All the joints and termination (except for the pickup have pre-clamped Anderson plugs.
1. The positive is picked up from the + jump start terminal under the bonnet at the right hand side rear and this feeds to an inline fuse and on the first Anderson plug. All the cabling has been cover with loom tube from JayCar and all cabling has ben secured with cable ties.
2, The negative is picked up from the - jump start terminal, There is just enough space in the opening surrounding the cable bundle to feed the single cable. The negative feeds back into the first Anderson plug, bypassing the fuse.
The cable then passes across to the left of the vehicle behind the bulkhead separating the engine form the wiper mechanism. Cable ties are important to keep the power cable away from the wiper mechanism.
3. On the left hand side in the rear corner behind the bulkhead the VSR was mounted on the bulkhead with two bolts. The cable crossing from the right was then plugged into the VSR input Anderson plug. The supplied long cable to the rear (has Anderson conductors connect to one end but without the plastic Anderson plug fitting while the other end has the full plug) was then fed down through a hole in the large rubber plug in the bottom of the compartment under the VSR (hard to see once installed but not too hard top do). A piece of loom tube was placed above the rubber plug. The long cable was then fed down between the wheel arch and the lining and then a long piece of loom tube place over the entire long cable.
4. The cable was the picked up at the bottom of the wheel arch and fastened with cable ties and fed back in the space under the door sill.
5. A bit hard to see in the photo but the cable goes to the rear in the space and behind the supports so it is held securely.
6. At the rear it is fed up just in front of the rear wheel arch.
7. Then up alongside the fuel tank.
8. The over the top of the fuel tank and over the diff.
9. It the is goes straight back along the underneath of the floor.
10. A bracket was made up from a piece of flat aluminium (Bunnings) and this was fastened to the bumper mount. The conductor ends where then fitted to the shell on the final Anderson plug and the plug attached to the bracket.
11. All done
This approach is fast, fairly neat and does not require removing panels or installing more connectors to the already cramped battery space. Despite the several Anderson plugs there is very little power loss and it runs my caravan fridge (15A) without any problems - I would think it would carry a much greater current if required. All cable terminations have been done for you so no problems with buying/borrowing crimping devices.
Bob
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You could save yourself running a long negative wire and just have a short piece from the Anderson plug to a earthed bolt nearby - that's how I did it and it has worked without any drama's.
Cheers,
DM
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16-11-2017
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Full Flexer
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Perth
Posts: 622 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 74
Liked 108 Times in 74 Posts
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That is some long cabling from the front to the back. For the long run and voltage drop consideration you probaby want to go with at least 2-4AWG which is bigger than what I can see from the photos.
Tapping in from the battery compartment is not as hard as you may think and ideal. You need to consider Jeeps cabling length from battery to the engine bay terminal as well.
But if it works for you, then great.
Please tell me you are not using blade fuses???
Sent from my SM-A910F using Tapatalk
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2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 3.6L v6, Mineral Grey.
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16-11-2017
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AJOR Gold
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Bowral
Posts: 274 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 10
Liked 118 Times in 69 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notso
Hope you've given them instructions about the size of wiring you want etc. In my experience they'll use the bare minimum size. Also make sure they are putting a Voltage Sensitive Relay or some other isolation system on it! And a fuse or circuit breaker!
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I was going to deal with that the day I drop it off but I might try and speak to the installer beforehand the more I think about it.
Cheers
__________________
MY17 Grand Cherokee Trailhawk
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16-11-2017
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Newbie
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 31 What Jeep do I drive?: WK
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 3 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy99
I was going to deal with that the day I drop it off but I might try and speak to the installer beforehand the more I think about it.
Cheers
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$250.00 sounds pretty cheap so worth checking what you are getting!
Yep, a lot of Auto Elecs have no idea of what we need in the way of power to a van etc. I don't know the wire size designations but mine is 5mm diameter wired to the Battery Positive and Negative terminals via a Voltage sensitive relay and circuit breaker. I have a knowledgeable Auto Elec nearby and all up it took him about an hour to run the cable etc.
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