2.7 drivers

[Adrian D]

IMO Mercedes got the VGT control right and I've never heard of problems with stuck vanes like on same era VAG TDI's.

You would be surprised at the amount of work that goes into calibrating the software for such an engine.

[Ben-n-Jo]

I understand this completely.

The reason I did this was I bought a new solenoid a while back when old one completely crapped itself . (stayed open to atmosphere. No boost)
Slowly its been getting laggy with excessive smoke boost gauge jumps around all over the place.( accelerating up hill changes gear boost drops have to accelerate harder)
Have to really floor it to get it to kick down.

Now there is no smoke that I can see from drivers seat. Spools up faster. Accelerates evenly and kicks down with little effort.
Fuel economy seems to have improved by a couple of liters per hundred.

Happy so far and completely reversible in about 10 min.


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[JeanLuke]

I'm still interested in seeing a write-up. What toys did you buy? Where did they fit? How did you mount them? What additional hardware was needed (hose tees/adaptors etc)?

[Ben-n-Jo]

OK . will do.

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[Ben-n-Jo]

This has been getting done by the Nissan patrol boys on their zd30s for years. The kit I bought was second hand from a bloke who traded his in and put everything back to standard.
Can buy a kit for patrol which has everything needed plus a few bits you don't for about $180 au from Tillix website.


OK . before I start, do this at your own risk as I will be accepting no responsibility whatsoever for any damage which results from this modification.
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ALSO FROM JeanLuke
QUOTE=JeanLuke;1644206]Been doing a bit of reading and I think this matter needs a caution flag. The increased boost usually results in an increased EGT. The 2.7 CRD engine has no EGT monitoring. Hence, without knowing it, the turbine life could be greatly reduced.

If you do the Tillix valve, I would think that an exhaust pirometer should also be installed.[/QUOTE
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This is the way I did it. (Don't claim its the best way but the way I did it).
First you need a boost outlet for the tillix valve. I drilled into the intercooler pipe where I could catch the swarf and screwed a fitting into there.(red arrow in first photo)
Disconnect vac line from turbo actuator and plug it so no contamination gets in. Disconnect vac line from solenoid to tee on vac supply at tee piece and plug to avoid contamination.
Run new vac line from vac supply tee to turbo actuator.(white arrow 3rd pic)
About 5cm back from turbo actuator cut new hose and install tee piece run new hose from here to new fitting installed in intercooler. Cut hose approx 10cm from fitting in intercooler and install tillix valve.
About 5cm back from first tee cut and install second tee. Run new hose from here to somewhere handy to have needle valve. Install needle valve in this and put filter on free end to filter air being drawn in there.


Instruction for all this come with the valve.
My setup started like this.
Tillix valve 2 full turns in gives you about 10/11 psi boost. Ended up about 2 and 1/3 in . too far and you'll over boost and get a code.
Needle valve started closed and wound out until the turbo actuator came back too about half its length of movement.
All of this is explained in instructions with valve.

Cheers Ben.

Footnote. This is also probably illegal.




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[JeanLuke]

Thanks for the write-up.

So the Tillix valve deletes all electronic controls and does it's own thing to control the variable vanes? Any idea what it tries to do (eg. keep the boost at a constant pressure)?

[Ben-n-Jo]

Originally Posted by JeanLuke

Thanks for the write-up.

So the Tillix valve deletes all electronic controls and does it's own thing to control the variable vanes? Any idea what it tries to do (eg. keep the boost at a constant pressure)?

Tillix controls max boost. Have mine set to around 14psi.
Needle valve controls spool up rate.
Do a Google search on tillix or Dawes valves. There is heaps out there explaining better than I can on their use etc.
Cheers Ben.

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