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  #22  
Old 09-04-2013
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No one likes a show off.

Yes I like haha. Lend me a spot or two.
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  #23  
Old 10-04-2013
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LOL, Yeah the missus keeps telling me I have gone over board, though not compared to many others!

Main surprise from the test was how much brighter $240 worth of ebay LEDs (bought 3 pairs of 15w LED's at approx $80 a pair) were compared to two 55w HID driving lamps. I knew the driving lamps would be better at distance, but didn't think the spread would so weak compared to the LED's.
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  #24  
Old 10-04-2013
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I'm trying to get a handle on the depth of light penetration here. How far is from the car to those couple of trees just off centre right in the distance?
  #25  
Old 10-04-2013
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The bit about lightbars needing a divider comes from an interpretation of the ADRs that says that headlights & driving lights must be fitted in pairs. So someone interpreted this to mean that a lightbar that was not even conceived when the rule was written must be visible as 2 separate items...

If you, therefore, have it set up as only an 'offroad' light, no separator is necessary, however the overly officious will demand that it has a cover if you are onroad...

As for HID inserts, any headlight system that is brighter than 2000 Lumens, as said above, must have a cleaning system, (spray & wiper), be auto leveling. Also, the housing must be specifi\cally designed so as to avoid glare for oncoming traffic.

Mind you, if you get a set that is a similar colour temp to normal headlights instead of extremely blue ones, you will almost certainly be ignored. (So stick to no more than 5300K colour temp, the really blue ones are 6000K to 8000K & the purple ones are 12000K. Sunlight is ~4300K and daylight (sun + sky) is ~5300K.)
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Old 10-04-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LSE3.9 View Post
I'm trying to get a handle on the depth of light penetration here. How far is from the car to those couple of trees just off centre right in the distance?
The pedestrian crossing is approx 25m away and the trees at "the end of the road" are about 75m away

Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee View Post
The bit about lightbars needing a divider comes from an interpretation of the ADRs that says that headlights & driving lights must be fitted in pairs. So someone interpreted this to mean that a lightbar that was not even conceived when the rule was written must be visible as 2 separate items...

If you, therefore, have it set up as only an 'offroad' light, no separator is necessary, however the overly officious will demand that it has a cover if you are onroad...

As for HID inserts, any headlight system that is brighter than 2000 Lumens, as said above, must have a cleaning system, (spray & wiper), be auto leveling. Also, the housing must be specifically designed so as to avoid glare for oncoming traffic.

Mind you, if you get a set that is a similar colour temp to normal headlights instead of extremely blue ones, you will almost certainly be ignored. (So stick to no more than 5300K colour temp, the really blue ones are 6000K to 8000K & the purple ones are 12000K. Sunlight is ~4300K and daylight (sun + sky) is ~5300K.)
Interesting your interpretation or understanding on the effective colours is the same as mine. If you have a look at that second last pic looking at all lights on in daylight, look at the colour of the spotties. To blue for me yet they are 5000°K. I am pulling them out and replacing with 4300°K as I really don't like the blue tinge at all. I did check the packaging, and the lights themselves and they are all labelled 5000k, so it doesn't seem to be a misprint. I had 6000°K on my bikes H4 headlight and it was way to noticeably blue, I havent replaced it yet (stuck a stock H4 globe back in) but might upgrade it to 4300 as well.

I have just realised that I bought 'inferior' DC kits instead of the 'superior' AC kits which are supposed to hold colour a lot better and give the bulbs better life span, so will see in a week or two when the replacements arrive. At least they only take a minute or two to install as everything fits nicely inside the light assembly connected to the original H1 spade connectors.


I am also thinking of relocating the two LED bars from the top of the bull bar hoop (they are visible there when driving and annoy me a little) to the top of the bull bar wings right at the base of the front guards. Any one mounted lights in a similar place?
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Last edited by SeaComms; 10-04-2013 at 03:22 PM.
  #27  
Old 10-04-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
LOL, Yeah the missus keeps telling me I have gone over board, though not compared to many others!
Funny you should mention the going overboard bit. I just purchased a 50in LED light bar for the roof rack and the missus said the same thing. So I now have a HID headlight upgrade, Halogen Spotties (for long distance) and the LED Light bar (for the close in spread beam). What I really would prefer is Standard Headlights with the upgraded wiring loom and globes with the HID spotlights and the LED light bar.

I really dont like the HID headlights and given the risk that they may be pissing other drivers off I would prefer to have something a bit more stockish as my everyday stuff and then bring out the big guns for country night driving and offroad use.
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
...

Interesting your interpretation or understanding on the effective colours is the same as mine. If you have a look at that second last pic looking at all lights on in daylight, look at the colour of the spotties. To blue for me yet they are 5000°K. I am pulling them out and replacing with 4300°K as I really don't like the blue tinge at all. I did check the packaging, and the lights themselves and they are all labelled 5000k, so it doesn't seem to be a misprint. I had 6000°K on my bikes H4 headlight and it was way to noticeably blue, I havent replaced it yet (stuck a stock H4 globe back in) but might upgrade it to 4300 as well.

I have just realised that I bought 'inferior' DC kits instead of the 'superior' AC kits which are supposed to hold colour a lot better and give the bulbs better life span, so will see in a week or two when the replacements arrive. At least they only take a minute or two to install as everything fits nicely inside the light assembly connected to the original H1 spade connectors.
...
I took some pics of the bike with both high & low beams on. As you can see, the low beam is distinctly white compared to the yellow halogen. I don't get any blue tinge with mine & suspect that yours may be a higher colour temp than the 5300K they said. Also, the high beam looks much yellower when you look at it than in the photo, so the white high beam is also even less blue than it may appear here.
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