For info regarding V6 Oil Changing:
1. 3.2L V6 KL engine takes exactly 6 litres for an oil change (actually a poofteenth under, but the full 6 is no harm).
2. The oil drain plug is M14x1.5 x35mm long (13mm Head - always use a single hex spanner or socket BTW) - this one works fine:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M14x1-5m...EAAOSwSEZbArnZ
Those Drain Plugs are superior to the original - have beefier skirt, nice seal, taller hex head and are about $18 cheaper than OEM. The seals look very good but I'd doubt they will be reusable. At under $4 each tho, the answer is to just buy a bunch of plugs.
Hi jewel - in spite of modern tech and everything I just couldn't bring myself to trust 5W-20 mineral oil - and from memory I had trouble finding even synthetic 5W20 that met MS6395 (I had concerns running in with synthetic anyway). To make sure the engine definitely ran in properly and then just as along term thing from that point I had intended to use 5W-30 mineral oil that met chrysler spec MS-6395. - but in the end I went straight to 5W-30 full synthetic from first 6mth change - ie. Penrite Enviro+GF-5 initially - then Nulon 5W-30 full synthetic from I think the 24mth change onward.
In the scheme of things 5W-30 isn't really "incorrect" as such - it's just not ideal. The owner's manual says it's ok to use 5W-30 if 5W-20 isn't available - 5W-20 is specified to achieve optimum economy and emissions. The really critical issue for warranty is that it's within specifications - including meeting MS-6395.
Pretty much in line with looking into if / why 5W-20 REALLY needed to be used I discovered that lots of people including dealer and non dealer mechanical shops and individuals both here and in the states have been using 5W-30 for years in Pentastar engines across the chrysler / dodge / jeep range of vehicles.
On top of that, some reading up on the ins and outs of modern low viscosity oils - both synthetic and mineral - indicated that slightly heavier oil does have advantages for long term wear even if it's minute. Further to that - altho I have no idea whether it's actually related to wear characteristics - I noted with interest how Nulon's 5W-20 has Moly Dithio added - where they don't seem to feel compelled to do the same with 5W-30... (if I HAD to use a 5W-20 I'd use that Nulon one regardless of not technically meeting MS-6395)
I was ok with going to full synthetic 5W-30 from the first oil change onward because even in 5W-30 I just don't feel confident in mineral oil holding up - especially in the tropics.
After researching reviews etc. I decided the Nulon synthetic was the way to go - and it impressed me from the outset by silencing a startup noise the car had since new - ie. right from the first oil change where I shifted to using Nulon 5W-30, that startup "rattle/rasp" our TH had had since new DISAPPEARED.
It was so loud on cold start I was actually fairly sure we had a starter issue - it was THAT loud and the nearest I'd heard previously was starter not disengaging cleanly so making that clashing sound sort of like turning the key on an already running engine. I shit you not it was THAT bad (researching USA forums etc on various pentastar vehicles indicates it was most likely valvetrain noise).
With Nulon 5W-30 that noise is GONE. Period.
Sorry about the lengthy post and chopping and changing - gettin old and all that crap (redface).
Oils aint Oils
