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  #15  
Old 29-08-2012
Auberon  Auberon is offline
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I'm designing my tranny support plate for the jack as we speak. Have done a number of Chrysler trannies and have always found those support plates you buy pretty useless....have always welded one up with cradles in 5mm PL with a 25 mm wide support strip weld at contact points to spread the load + machined a spiggott to fit the 2T floor jack. If I have time I make floating feet on a pin with its own clevis pin just for that transmission as I wiil no doubt work on it again. I hang on to a good vehicle with all this extra work + accessories done on it.
I put also plan a cross in the most strategic areas to take 3-4 links of rated chain that will lock with a twist through 90 degrees into the cross in the platform. Once in place they are easily put into position then the starps can be securely attached to the platform.
I also run a rail along the underside of each edge in 25x6 mm flat bar.
All overkill but I also like to use 5mm plate that is webbed to the corners (again 25x6 mm flat bar is adequate). There is a fair bit of weight on these and trannies like the Torqueflite 6.

I also have turners jacks on hand to rotate axially or jack for and aft to align the locating spiggotts (alignment pins) perfectly for as close as possible to a sliding fit. This is because I always work on these projects alone and plan for a no strain job.

You are absolutely correct with your comments re cheap jacks and lifts. I used to used chains over the top to support but now use rated ratchet load straps for and aft to hold the unit securely as you did.
AND:
Thanks for this write-up. It is pretty much as expected but your comments have helped muchly in planning.

Glend; ONE QUESTION if I may:
I have added bulkheads to drain the pans more easily in the past (less kit on hand in the shop). Am considering this time tigging a threaded sleeve to allow a plug to be added for oil changes. The plug would also be cross drilled to allow wiring for security against undoing. by vibration or vandalism. I hate the shower of fluid when you break the seal of the pan on the tranny. Was thinking of back of tranny pan as this will be covered/protected by the skid plate also. I would appreciate your thoughts on this mod.
Thanks.
The breather extents is a good idea and was planned also.
  #16  
Old 29-08-2012
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glend  glend is offline
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If you can put in a threaded sleeve fitting then that's a great idea. If you tap it right you could probably find a Fumoto ball valve drain that would fit. I use the Fumoto F102 in my oil sump and it works great. Re location, I have my tranny drain in the side of the deepest part of the pan (near the bottom) and this doubles as my temp gauge sensor sleeve - I just remove the sensor to drain the pan. The rear would work just as well.

I'd like to see a pic of your cradle when finished. I plan to mod by tranny jack adaptor to work better. It worried me to have that weight sitting on the thin pressed metal pan, and the timbers were ideal for spreading load off those sharp edged steel angles on the adaptor.

Last edited by glend; 29-08-2012 at 03:46 PM.
  #17  
Old 09-01-2013
dastrix  dastrix is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glend View Post
If you can put in a threaded sleeve fitting then that's a great idea. If you tap it right you could probably find a Fumoto ball valve drain that would fit. I use the Fumoto F102 in my oil sump and it works great. Re location, I have my tranny drain in the side of the deepest part of the pan (near the bottom) and this doubles as my temp gauge sensor sleeve - I just remove the sensor to drain the pan. The rear would work just as well.

I'd like to see a pic of your cradle when finished. I plan to mod by tranny jack adaptor to work better. It worried me to have that weight sitting on the thin pressed metal pan, and the timbers were ideal for spreading load off those sharp edged steel angles on the adaptor.
Is this job easier or more difficult than the timing belt? How much would a tranny shop charge do you think?

Cheers
Kris
  #18  
Old 13-06-2013
dastrix  dastrix is offline
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Is this job easier or more difficult than the timing belt? How much would a tranny shop charge do you think?

Cheers
Kris
Glen, is this the pump seal you speak of to do when the TC is replaced?

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/impelle...p-4412475.html
  #19  
Old 13-06-2013
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glend  glend is offline
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Default Re: Replacing your Torque Converter

I don't know what a transmission specialist would charge, I never asked someone else to change the TC. Obviously you would need to ask about replacing the rear main seal at the same time for ease of access. Re the pump seal part number, I will have to check the parts fiche. You could do a search on Lost because they seem to do a lot of things pump related.
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