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Old 15-12-2003
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I got my AA SYE thru highangle, $220USD plus $70 USD postage, here in less than a week. Great to deal with, even called me internationally to confirm details etc. Quicker delivery across the world than I have had thru anyone local!
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Old 15-12-2003
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You will find the uni joints will break long before the actual driveshaft.
this is probably true zzzz, but what about the slip spline......my chev has made a nice mess of that.....31" tyres , a granny low box and a big donk can do allsorts of damage...i change unis(part of sevice shedule) but i think theres no need to pull apart the driveshaft and find out that u have to 'unscrew' a spline that should be straight ....but i guess it depends on application of the vehicle.....sometimes( in this case) i think bigger is better.
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Old 16-12-2003
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I run the 1310's on the double cardins, and 1350's on the diff ends... most of the breakage I have seen has been on the diff uni, so I figured I would upgrade those ones 1st.

I just took my shafts into a good driveshaft joint, asked them to put 1350's on the end, gave them the lengths I needed the shafts to be and away they went. Also need 1350 yolks for the diffs, and U-bolts are the go.

The high angle 1 ton shafts run 1350 CV and 1410 at the diff end. The advantage of the 1410 is it handles much larger angles before binding... my rear pinion angles don't get beyond 20 degrees so the 1350 is aok.

My rear shaft is pretty long though, and the angles are decent. I run reverse (high pinion) D60's, an Atlas and have pushed the rear axel back 7"... nice looong rear shaft!

By the way, if I was running a D44 and big tyres I would prefer to break a 1310 uni joint on the driveshaft than a rear semi-float axle... think of the 1310 uni on the diff end of your driveshaft as your fuse. Upgrade to U bolts on the yolk and give it a whirl...
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