Commander 3.0l crd engine problem "PLEASE HELP"

[gleeson235]

Hey Darren, I did replace the swirl motor but about 9 Months after the initial fix by replacing the wiring to the ECM. the below link is a step by step on how to replace it.
http://jeepmeister.com/WK/Swirlmotor.pdf
I didn't replace myself, i took it to the local mechanic with at PDF. He had a problem with some clips breaking, apart from that he said it went OK.
If your Symptoms are the same as mine, I would try the wiring replacement first. Its a lot easier & cheaper than the swirl motor.

[RichRen]

Hi all, I'm glad gleeson235's troubles seem to have been fixed, but I couldn't help but think that a lot of people's heartaches could be avoided if they installed the GDE Flash Tune from Murchisons in Brisbane. It's a performance / economy engine tune that also eliminates some of the common problems with swirl motors and EGR valves. It has been developed by ex-factory engineers and is no less than amazing. Mine pull like a train and gets better economy, while giving me piece of mind on those other issues. Just saying. ...

[Shrubby]

Originally Posted by gleeson235

I own a 2007 commander 3.0l CRD with 140,000 km's.
About 3 months ago, it started throwing P2138 & P2121 fault codes, throttle position sensor. The engine light & the red lightning bolt light came on & it went into limp mode. Turn the engine off, remove key, inset key, restart engine, off you go, sometimes for days, sometimes for seconds. As it is out of warranty, i took it to a auto electricians with Jeep experience. The throttle sensor was replaced but the problem continued. He was sent test procedures to test the code but everything tested OK. Tests were run again, still ok. He was told that if the tests are all good, it’s the CPU. He was not convinced & neither am I.

So i hit the net for common problems.
Swirl motor??? Remover the turbo intake tube & watched the swirl motor moving freely when engine was reved.
Cat clogged??? Removed cats & all look ok. (NOT EASY)
Intercooler blocked??? Have not removed yet but is next on my list.

When i removed the inlet tube & revved the engine to see if the swirl motor operated, i noticed that when it was revving, it was sucking like crazy, but when you backed off, it actually blew air back out the turbo inlet with a big hissing sound. Is this normal????
I know it a Variable-geometry turbocharger but i have no idea of characteristics.

If you push the accelerator down slowly, it picks up revs & will drive but if you push it down quickly, it lightning bolts & goes into limp. Even if it drives, it surges terribly.
Sorry for being so long winded but i am trying to include all info available.
If anyone can help in any way, it would be appreciated, i am at witts end.

It's the actuator on the turbo. I had the same fault light come on. Took it to my mechanic who identified that it was actually the actuator that only partially worked. Currently in the process of getting one from the U.K. that relates to my VIN number. Let me know if you need any other details.
Regards,
Shrubby

[08crd]

Originally Posted by djeffery

Hi mate, I am a newbie and found your thread with almost the exact symptoms as myself. Same fault codes, limp mode only when accelerating etc..
I've been to at least 3 different so called experts with their scan tools and am not convinced with their "guesses" at mainly pedal replacement.

1st thing was resistor trick for swirl motor.. Bit more turbo lag but still limped

2nd- I have had the EGR valve out (cleaned, not dirty anyways) and it kinda worked after you revved the motor but it was moving to a degree (maybe had wrong pressure because exhaust open where EGR sits?) To me it should open as you rev up not down. Don't know how to test it separately.

3rd - Had a look for corrosion under battery where you had problems and nothing obvious

Now I am thinking that maybe the inlet manifold is stuck/ blocked at swirl motor (thought I would have got a fault code for swirl but haven't as yet).

Just wondering, did you replace the swirl motor without turbo removal?
Any other ideas?

Cheers Darren

Another thing that can cause throttle position fault codes is, a turbo pressure leak on the intercooler side.
Check the intercooler inlet pipe and the outlet pipes, it needs to be done under load, so someone in the car with foot on brake revs it up while in gear, someone else checks hoses.
Scary but necessary, unless you have a 4x4 dyno to put it on.

[Clarky]

Check the date on the posts guys, although the information is great some of the questions you are answering are over 18 months old.

[Tango]

Originally Posted by gleeson235

...1. Replace intake tube with new modified one. ( 53013672ae. $245.00 from Horsham Car Center, inc del)
....

Just so you know you can replace just the seal.. and not that whole tube thing. So it's way les $$

It's a MB part on the ML 350

[Tango]

Mercedes part number 642-094-04-80 Gasket