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  #81  
Old 15-06-2016
alexbrown64  alexbrown64 is offline
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At one stage my brakes were hopeless and i was not going to go ahead with this project until i sorted them. I ordered the EBC Yellow Stuff pads, front caliper rebuild kits and rear cylinders all at the same time. I put the pads on and the difference was a miracle, so i never bothered with all the other stuff. That was up until today. I got down and dirty and covered in brake fluid. Tackled the rear cylinders first. They were pretty old and i could of swore i saw one weeping a while back. These were quite easy, but i had preplanned by getting a handy 3/8 flare nut spanner which really helped.



The fronts took a bit longer as the pods in the calipers were a stuck in. Everything was really dirty and worn. Cleaned everything up, got the pods out and replaced them together with all new seals. My old dust seals were missing, so hopefully this setup will give all the brakes a new lease of life... I used about a liter of brake fluid bleeding everything through. Pedal feels good but i may give them another go after a few drives.


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Last edited by alexbrown64; 22-03-2018 at 09:05 PM.
  #82  
Old 20-06-2016
alexbrown64  alexbrown64 is offline
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Cleaned everything up and re-installed the cylinder head with new bolts. Torqued everything 3 times and in the pattern that the fsm requires.
As my rocker cover is 21 years old and is the alloy type, it comes with a permanent gasket that the fsm says can be repaired with rtv within reason, or if its beyond repair.. replace rocker cover. That's not going to happen and there is an alternative. My gasket was shot, but Felpro provides a gasket as a replacement for this model.. Its not cheap, at twice the price of the head gasket, but its great quality. Fel-Pro VS 50522 T.





I also had a chance to pick up the Wildcat headers that had been ceramic coated.
Below is a pic of the old OEM headers, which are cracked, vs the new tri y design Wildcat headers with ceramic coat to reduce underhood temps, improve performance and protect the headers from rust. Going to fit these tomorrow. Have everything ready including 14mm ratchet spanner.



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Last edited by alexbrown64; 22-03-2018 at 09:07 PM.
  #83  
Old 20-06-2016
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The 14mm ratchet spanner makes things easier, I also have ceramic coated extractors, never noticed any difference temp wise compared to the stock manifold...
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  #84  
Old 23-06-2016
alexbrown64  alexbrown64 is offline
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I was a bit apprehensive about re-fitting the inlet and exhaust manifolds. I knew it was going to be a hard time, and the Jeep didn't let me down.

I was well prepared with the 14mm ratchet spanner, copper rtv, removed the front drive shaft to give me more room.. Below is a pic of the progress... it was all going so well...

and then i snapped the rear stud when tightening everything up. Its 3/8 and snapped 2 threads inside the head right at the back near the firewall. I have now read thats its common. I was gutted. Took everything back off, ordered and got a new manifold gasket within 3 hours from Coventrys, got two 3/8 manifold bolts from Repco, and a right hand drill adaptor and cobalt drill bit from Masters.

I managed to get my drill in the stud and make a 3.5mm hole and then tried getting it out with a bolt extractor. 7pm and no luck so far.
I plan on drilling bigger and using a bigger extractor, and then may have to go up to 8mm and rethread. This is a major problem, and i don't want to have to remove the head again...



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  #85  
Old 23-06-2016
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I did the same thing on my OBD1 engine, when I tried to drill it for the easy out it wandered off course, the result wasn't pretty, luckily that engine is gone now....
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  #86  
Old 23-06-2016
awg  awg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbrown64 View Post
.. it was all going so well...

and then i snapped the rear stud when tightening everything up. Its 3/8 and snapped 2 threads inside the head right at the back near the firewall. I have now read thats its common. I was gutted. Took everything back off, ordered and got a new manifold gasket within 3 hours from Coventrys, got two 3/8 manifold bolts from Repco, and a right hand drill adaptor and cobalt drill bit from Masters.

I managed to get my drill in the stud and make a 3.5mm hole and then tried getting it out with a bolt extractor. 7pm and no luck so far.
I plan on drilling bigger and using a bigger extractor, and then may have to go up to 8mm and rethread. This is a major problem, and i don't want to have to remove the head again...

Cheers,
nasty...good luck, most of my experience is vehicles 40s-70s, have had to extract broken studs quite a few times, and hate easyout extractors, especially if the drill hole isnt dead centre. Heating the the drilled stud shell helps, if u havnt oxy, have used an arc welder tip right on the stud, glows red in seconds

ended up using helicoil or timesert several times
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  #87  
Old 23-06-2016
alexbrown64  alexbrown64 is offline
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Well, i played around all day. Used tungsten carbide burs, cobalt drill bits, 3/8 x 16 UNC tap, etc.. cost a fortune.. old stud all drilled out, and i ended up with a threaded hole that is too sloppy. My last resort is a Recoil 23603 3/8 x16 UNC thread repair kit. It has a short shank drill bit that i can fit in, and then rethread to correct dimensions for coil and then stud. I was toying with the idea of Devcon and all that, but it would just be a bodge job.. i am hoping for everlasting peace when this is done.....
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  #88  
Old 23-06-2016
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junglejuice  junglejuice is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbrown64 View Post
Well, i played around all day. Used tungsten carbide burs, cobalt drill bits, 3/8 x 16 UNC tap, etc.. cost a fortune.. old stud all drilled out, and i ended up with a threaded hole that is too sloppy. My last resort is a Recoil 23603 3/8 x16 UNC thread repair kit. It has a short shank drill bit that i can fit in, and then rethread to correct dimensions for coil and then stud. I was toying with the idea of Devcon and all that, but it would just be a bodge job.. i am hoping for everlasting peace when this is done.....
Again, sounds familiar....
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