Fuel efficiently

[anthonygubbin]

Originally Posted by Capt. Crunch

There's an inspection plate you can take off and with a bit of effort you can access the bolts on the flex plate.

They do tend to vibrate loose on some jeeps, I read somewhere that the light knocking sound you can hear at idle is often caused by that and when I went in to inspect it I found two of the bolts could tighten quite a lot so I took them all out and thread locked them

You and the OP must be referring to the four TC bolts. Because I could see no way anyone could access the flex plate bolts as the TC sits over them. I should know I just had my trans out. I could be wrong but I can not see how any one could access the bolts on the back of the engine through that little gap with just the inspection plate removed. Also the tension on them would require a big rattle gun to get them off in the first place. There is so much tension on them that without a decent rattle gun you couldn't hold the drive plate from spinning using a spanner.

Regards A

[anthonygubbin]

Originally Posted by Shiggins

I've had problems before with it. Problem is the thread on the bolts end up damaged. I've done one bolt and I'm asuming another one is loose now it's mainly noticeable when slowing down without breaking. You can hear it knock.

If your stripping the threads then you have some other problem going on. I removed my TC three times with my trans debacle and not once had an issue with the bolts not tightening or stripping the threads.

Regards A

[Capt. Crunch]

I think my efficiency is slowly deteriorating. Used to get 6.5 - 6.7 km/L but started getting 6.3 - 6.4 and today it was between 6.18 or 6.25 (I replaced the fuel filter and assumed 500mL loss from filter and line, that's how it went up to 6.25).

Changed my K&N which was looking pretty bad with a normal paper filter from Repco recently. I would have thought this would improve economy.

Also pulled my O2 and replaced it with the old one to see if anything changes as I had a O2 code on my ECU. Want to be sure that's the problem before buying a replacement.

on a side note do you have to reset the ECU to forget codes once something has been fixed? I still have the O2 code coming up.

[anthonygubbin]

If the filter is a Ryco or equivalent then that could be the reason. Ryco's have better filtration than genuine and far better than K&N which IMO shouldn't be used on a vehicle that travels on dirt roads.

Regards A

[Capt. Crunch]

Originally Posted by anthonygubbin

If the filter is a Ryco or equivalent then that could be the reason. Ryco's have better filtration than genuine and far better than K&N which IMO shouldn't be used on a vehicle that travels on dirt roads.

Regards A

Do you mean it would make economy worse? Yeah that K&N was a piece of crap, it came for free with my lift kit and I wouldn't ever justify that much money for a filter that's this porous.You can almost see through some parts of it.

My filter is a repco branded one.

[anthonygubbin]

Originally Posted by Capt. Crunch

Do you mean it would make economy worse? Yeah that K&N was a piece of crap, it came for free with my lift kit and I wouldn't ever justify that much money for a filter that's this porous.You can almost see through some parts of it.

My filter is a repco branded one.

Yerr probably why you are using more fuel. Hard to say who makes the Repco one it would be another major brand rebadged.

Regards A