2.7 drivers

[markredgum]

I too was surprised at the improvement with replacing the rear sway bar bushes.

The rear end used to clunk and click like crazy, but replacing the bushes solved all that. Fairly cheap and easy to get done as well.

[fester]

Hey guys. Anyone around this afternoon that can explain further how to get that stupid fuel bleeder open. I'm sure I've seen it discussed before but search is not working for me. The manual just says press the locking ring in the direction of the arrow but I do not see an arrow anywhere. I'm assuming you push this inwards. Pull off seal, is that the small shaft inside with the lead on it so you don't loose it. Press inlet connection into bleeder until it locks. I'm lost because mine is so tight I cannot get anything to move without the fear of breaking it. I've never had any luck with it since I got it but have not desperately needed it. Can someone shed mor elight in the subject.

[bodgie]

Originally Posted by fester

Hey guys. Anyone around this afternoon that can explain further how to get that stupid fuel bleeder open. I'm sure I've seen it discussed before but search is not working for me. The manual just says press the locking ring in the direction of the arrow but I do not see an arrow anywhere. I'm assuming you push this inwards. Pull off seal, is that the small shaft inside with the lead on it so you don't loose it. Press inlet connection into bleeder until it locks. I'm lost because mine is so tight I cannot get anything to move without the fear of breaking it. I've never had any luck with it since I got it but have not desperately needed it. Can someone shed mor elight in the subject.

I've fought with this on may occasions and can never find a solution that works consistently. Often after a few goes the plug will simply pull out with little effort.

Jason

[drover]

I've sort of pushed the grey collar while turning and pulling the black pin and it eventually comes out, sometimes instantly.

[fester]

Thanks guys. I did find a write up on JeepForum from a UK guy that explained it quite well. I haven't hit it yet had other things crop up this afternoon but I was just scared that it seemed to require so much force. He explained that it does take some effort and that the sleeve doesn't seem to move but in reality only moves about 1mm. I'll have a decent crack at it in the morning, was mostly worried that the force required gives the expectation that it will break at any moment. If it does break I suppose I'll just put in a ball valve like Piper did and be done with it.

[fester]

So life is a 2 edged sword again. Almost love my baby again. After sitting for 12 months (I know slack) I thought I should try the bleed valve to help any fueling issue. Man that thing is hard to use. Anyway finally got it and tried the syringe trick. Might have sucked a tiny bit of air through but really hardly anything. So I stuck the key in crossed my fingers ready for some cranking and blow me down she fired immediately and settled to a steady idle within about 3 seconds.

Of course I still have the hurdle of limping it to the dealer 100k's away down the Pacific Hwy to get the bloody hard trans fault code cleared with fingers crossed I have addressed the issue. I can't remember but does the DRBIII just clear the P0702 code from the ECU of does it have to go into the TCM and clear the codes there first. I'm wondering if any non dealer tools can get in to the TCM.

I'm going to try Ultratune here in town as I was told by another 2.7 owner that they went to an Ultratune and their equipment could interrogate the 2.7. However I'm not sure if that was only ECU based or whether their tool can get into the TCM. How do the better trans shops go with this issue I wonder.

See, proof it lives and moves: (don't look at the bar haven't decided how much effort I'm now going to go with painting)

[drover]

Can't hurt to ask the Ultratune blokes, might strike it lucky, the fella that used to do my Tranny in the ZJ had a Chrysler DRBIII tool, well it was part of a big diagnostic unit which read everything, he reckoned having the scanner made life easier but bloody expensive. (Price of a small country) I think it may just have to clear the ECU to get things going, the TCM throws the code to the ECU, need to read up again
The end of the syringe has to be cut at an angle otherwise when it pushes the ball in it seals on the ball and no suck, I still get a small air bubble sitting near the filter, runs fine just this damn bubble appears after I shut down and don't know where it comes from, seals done, new hoses, still there after filter changes, so since it doesn't cause any probs I ignore it.