Distributor replacement

[junglejuice]

Take the serpentine belt off and see if the noise goes away, while it's off check all the bearings....

[Roler]

Just to verify;
I can just start and run the engine like that ( for a short time of course since no waterpump or fanclutch etc)?
And checking bearings as in: no play in them?

[awg]

Originally Posted by Roler

Just to verify;
I can just start and run the engine like that ( for a short time of course since no waterpump or fanclutch etc)?
And checking bearings as in: no play in them?

it wont hurt the engine, so long as its cold when u start and dont run it for long..it may possibly throw a code due to no alternator

I would try and narrow it down a bit first if possible, so you can concentrate on examining any prime suspect

[awg]

does a new distributor come with the camshaft sensor complete?

[alexbrown64]

Originally Posted by junglejuice

If you're swapping from one dissy to another (assuming it's running correctly) it's pretty straight forward, remove the cap and rotor, remove the CPS, refit the rotor button, Grab a pencil or marker and mark the position of the rotor with a single mark, remove the retaining bolt and clamp, gently lift the distributor until the rotor stops turning and and second (double) mark on the housing and then remove the distributor entirely.
Grab the new distributor and replicate the marks on the body as per the original distributor, fit the rotor button, fit the housing into the block in the correct orientation (ie in line with the retaining bolt), rotate the rotor to the double marks and then gently work the housing down into the block, some gentle wriggling of the rotor may be required to get the shaft to mesh with the cam. Once fully seated the rotor should line up with the second mark, if not remove the dissy and set it again.
This whole procedure takes almost less time then it did to type this out.......

I know JJ used to do a lot of work on XJ's. Old thread, but this is exactly what i did today. Several times. In fact i did this procedure 5-6 times. Every time i put the new distributor in, the Jeep ran like crap. Crackling on deceleration, gutless, high idle. I would swap the old distributor back in.. Jeep run like a champ. Swap back in new distributor with everything alingned perfectly.. runs like crap again.

I used the same CPS, Cap and Button throughout. All leads and everything checked each swap. I ended up greasing the shaft on my old dizzy and using that one, as the car runs so well with it in. Just wondering if the new Chinese distributor bodies are crap. Got it cheap on Fleabay..

[Mudgee hunter]

Usually if pictured with the cap on it, generally yes.
Individual components collectively is an expensive way.
Once you have got a top dead center on number one, mark the crank pulley to the front cover ( two lines) .
Makes life easier for next time.
Then you just have to make sure the rotor is facing number 1 position.
The locating plug hole on the dizzy should land perfectly over the hole for the bolt.
If it dosent settle in nicely, tweek the 11 o'clock position on the oil pump . It will sit proud off the bottom buy about 6mm if you miss the keys way spot.
It should basically just fall in with a gentle twist.
I think there was two different styles of CAS connectors.
Disconnect firstly, and take a photo of the dizzy end.
Some had a rectangular connector, and some had a oval shape on the inside.
Flat and round pins...

[awg]

fwiw, I take a steel rule, and draw a chalk line thru the rotor button, and mark the position of that line on the engine block, also mark the body

from what Alex has said, it seems likely the "new" dizzy is defective