Diff rebuild or Second Handy

[Grippy]

Originally Posted by Classic Boy

In my experience new crush sleeves do take a significant torque load to start them into their set. I am a person who often reuses the original sleeve, I usually use some laminated shim material to increase its length about 0.015" and retorque it.

Thank-you very much, I think I'll reuse the bugger then, tap him with a hammer and back in.
I should be sorted for this job, planning to cut the bearings and races off with the Dremel, heard it's a fairly quick job, saves me going to a shop and being dicked around and ripped off by assholes trying to empty my wallet for a 10 min job and at least I can do it at home.
Will put pinion and carrier in my Engel on freeze and heat the bearings, I've heard they usually slip on fairly easily like this and may only require a light love tap to seat them.

Sent from under my Grand Cherokee

[JeanLuke]

Okay, I *think* it's my turn.

Anywhere above 80kmh I get a considerable whine when I apply a little throttle. It goes quiet on coast. I figure this is probably the rear pinion bearing in the rear diff (from reading the manual). I plan to remove the front driveshaft and test to confirm it's not a front driveshaft joint.

Am I barking up the right tree?

The rear diff is the 44HD (aluminium case). Do I need a case spreader? Is there anything tricky other than clocking the backlash and bluing the mesh? I figure the money I'll save on paying a pro will buy me a dial gauge and in-lb torque wrench.

It looks like the process isn't too hard - just requires a bit of time and patience. Right?

[Adrian D]

Like everything (IMO), patience, skill and some tools.

When I replaced my front axle I took out the carrier from the donor axle without a case spreader. Had to do it so I could wash out dirt and rust in the axle tubes.

[bodgie]

Originally Posted by JeanLuke

Okay, I *think* it's my turn.

Anywhere above 80kmh I get a considerable whine when I apply a little throttle. It goes quiet on coast. I figure this is probably the rear pinion bearing in the rear diff (from reading the manual). I plan to remove the front driveshaft and test to confirm it's not a front driveshaft joint.

Am I barking up the right tree?

Don't discount wheel bearings, give them a wiggle to see how much play is there, they could also be the source of your noise too. Cheaper and easier to do this job first IMHO.

Have you checked to see if there is any play or slop in the pinion bearing?

Originally Posted by JeanLuke

The rear diff is the 44HD (aluminium case). Do I need a case spreader? Is there anything tricky other than clocking the backlash and bluing the mesh? I figure the money I'll save on paying a pro will buy me a dial gauge and in-lb torque wrench.

It looks like the process isn't too hard - just requires a bit of time and patience. Right?

Pay someone to do it, it should hopefully be done right if a quality tradesperson looks at it for you.

[JeanLuke]

Originally Posted by bodgie

Have you checked to see if there is any play or slop in the pinion bearing?

It's pretty ordinary weather in Brissy, so I'm planning to spend the weekend under the Jeep (and at the front fitting my new bullbar). It is one of the things to check, as well as the CV's and wheel bearings. I did post a while back in another thread about grease stains under the floor around the rear shaft CV joint. I hope it's not the problem because I suspect it will be a pain to find the part.

Interestingly, when one of my front hubs spat the bearings a few months ago, it had to get really loud before I could feel the free-play and know which one it was. Being from an engineering background, I am a bit sensitive to noises from cars that are not supposed to be there.

As for getting a better job by paying, based on recent experience I am not so sure.

[JeanLuke]

Originally Posted by Adrian D

Like everything (IMO), patience, skill and some tools.

When I replaced my front axle I took out the carrier from the donor axle without a case spreader. Had to do it so I could wash out dirt and rust in the axle tubes.

It's getting it back in that has me a little concerned. How hard was it without a spreader?

[Adrian D]

Wasn't too hard but I did not have to replace bearings and shims. I took the center out, washed the housing and put the center back in.