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  #8  
Old 02-01-2016
bshockings  bshockings is offline
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Hi Glen,
Matey I would dearly love to bleed the power head but cant seem to find any information.
Spent the last 2hrs bleeding air from the filter system. The primer/ plunger is in the center of the head and is in need of a new plunger me thinks. 100 pumps and it finally got some pressure!!
Anyhow, ended up priming it via a 50ml syringe with spigot end in a clear tube on the out going side and just sucked and sucked till all the air was out and then quickly attached the pipe. Currently my money is on something fishy with the filter system. Its not like any I have seen on any of the threads with similar issues.

Is there a bleed screw on the other side of the fuel filter?


I was careful at the time not to allow the fuel line to the pump to loose any fluid.

Started. ran revs up to 2000rpm for 20 secs then left it idle. Lots of dark gray, small puffs of blackish soot and basically wavered between blueish and grayish exhaust. Kids were sick of the smell!!

checked out the field manual for KJ but has no CRD only petty models.

Will keep thinking....

Thanks again
Bruce
  #9  
Old 02-01-2016
Auberon  Auberon is offline
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Given PO579 be thinking at looking at the connectors and as you've done some cleaning) to do with the speed control unit first. Remembering codes are only indicators and can be phantom codes.
I have seen this with the grey connector not pushed home....not suggesting that is it but worth looking at. Usually its that simple.
As you've been cleaning or looking at the cruise control unit - termed "speed control unit" in the CRD FSmanuals (just in front of the brake booster) it is possible that the grey connector near the fender has become disconnected or is not fully home resulting in intermittent ops. This will absolutely cause your issue but not exclusively. It's a simple matter of clipping it home securely but they can easily get bumped.

Another seemingly unlikely item to check is (and I now it seems unrelated) the state of the tiny paper filter tucked in the front of the cruise control unit between the fender (mudguard) and the air filter body. Also suggest you check the turbo hose integrity from the sir box to the turbo intake. They are known to split over time at the turbo intake These can be had cheaply from idparts.
Have you cleaned the puck (on top of the driver's side rocker cover)? - also feeds captured ioil back into the base of the turbo intake hose 19mm id.
Also do a run over it to feel that all sensor connectors are clicked home.

Bruce, there is no bleed screw on the Mopar filter (OEM) head other than the one on the engine side. The procedure that works best is to pump until pressurised (resistance is felt at the large black mushroomed button) and then release the air through the bleed screw. Only pumping whilst nipped up. Release the pressure. Nip up and repeat. If in good or even fair order it is one of the easiest diesel systems ever to bleed.

I liked to release it into a clear hose connected to a clear plastic container that was all connected up with leuer fittings so no spill. but a hose into a jar will do just fine if you can steady it against a spill- some use a paper towel or cloth to catch the spray from the nipple. The idea is to repeat until it is rock solid and no air escapes when the bleed screw is released.

P1684 notes the battery was disconnected - which you said you did....so given the way these numbers are structured - could be related, hence, prolly nought to worry about. I couldn't find that number specifically in the books I have.

Once the fuel filter and head is cleared of air the engine side is self-clearing/priming. Its a nice system really (short pathway and loosely primed by priming the system's head).

Hope that helps you but only postulating (obviously).

Last edited by Auberon; 02-01-2016 at 06:52 PM. Reason: spelling correction
  #10  
Old 02-01-2016
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glend  glend is offline
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There is a bleed nipple on the top of the left side of the filter head (see the attached photo - bleed nipple is circled in yellow), you loosen that while pumping the button (where the yellow arrow is in the attached photo), when fuel runs free with no air - tighten the bleed nipple to shutoff the flow. It helps to put a length of clear hose on the nipple so you can easily see the fuel flow into a container.

If you don't bleed the air via the nipple (which at the high point of the head) then some air can remain in the system. Don't try to bleed the air by removing hoses - it doesn't work.
Down load the Service Manual from the Sticky thread 'Service Manual' located in the front index of the KJ Forum, the fuel bleed write up is in there. It's also in the owners manual that should have come with your KJ.
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Last edited by glend; 02-01-2016 at 02:57 PM.
  #11  
Old 02-01-2016
Auberon  Auberon is offline
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Bruce I just re-read your notes.
You mentioned the primer is in the center. Does that mean you have the Racor head (cream colour). If you answer yes then the bleeding process is very different to the Mopar whatever gen fuel head.
Get back to the firum if that's the case - I've changed mine to the Racor given the easy access to 2 micron filter and high quality water seg medium.
Cheers.
  #12  
Old 02-01-2016
bshockings  bshockings is offline
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Hey Auberon,
appreciate that advice. Will check the speed control connections. I know the "cable" from the accelerator pedal feels like the casing is snapped under the sheath near the air cleaner but I have not cleaned or touched any of those connections.

My fuel filter head does not have a bleed screw or mushroom pump.

There is air in the system somewhere. I tipped the whole unit upside down and sucked from the drain plug! Air bubbles from somewhere??
At this stage I think the seals the filter unit have been disturbed when I changed it and need renewal. (I also put another new filter in with some improved results)

I also think the nice fat orange "O ring" on the air sensor may also now be faulty since its been disturbed(several times!!)

No issues anywhere else in the intake/air system-all checked and cleaned and crack free.
Cleaned the pipe from the "puck" but not the puck itself.

If the system bleeds itself I might just drive it gently around and around the paddock until it sorts itself out
My money at this stage is on that fuel head being faulty. But I will check all those connections!!
Thanks
Bruce
  #13  
Old 02-01-2016
bshockings  bshockings is offline
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I think my filter head is a Racor. Very similar to this one. Perhaps a series or 2 earlier.
http://www.westernfilters.net.au/Rac...pin-on-Series/

Bleeding not working. Just pulses in and out, not one way. That is why its just not pressurising. Iam certain it needs a new plunger and pressure check ball inside.
A one way valve on the intake hose would be handy!!!

If Auberon is right, and the system self primes, then it has no chance if there is a slight vacuum leak at the filter head.

or

the air sensor is now too clean for the rest of the intake system and its all outta wack!
  #14  
Old 03-01-2016
bshockings  bshockings is offline
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Default Rough idle , no power

Ok, so it sat over night so that if there are any micro bubbles- like your cappuccino, they may have settled.

Start fine

Idle- less rough, constant(no surging like our tractor) still not quite right

Road test- less ranges of black. But when it came to getting up a small incline no good! very smokey, no power
Speed test - max 65km/hr at 2000 rpm and no further! Less pinging and rattling but going nowhere fast

Going back over everything I touched the other day and all those connections Auberon as suggested
Cheers for now
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